LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

installing a 847.. some last questions

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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 10:07 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Heatmaker
and the guys that ran the pans dry where cases of wrong combinations. Like stock pans hv pumps...etc etc. Just trends I noticed on these forums over the years.

I'm a member of this club

The 847 cammed engine will overall be faster than stock, without question, but as has been beaten to death in this thread, your car will be faster with a smaller cam - and live longer.

BTW, the PCM cuts out at 7200 RPM.
Old Jun 4, 2007 | 02:37 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by taubr unit
Im about ready to put in my 847 cam. I got a whole new valvetrain for it (comp. RR's, 918 springs w/ ti retainers, seats and locators, 7/16 studs, gmpp guideplates, 7.2 pushrods) new timing chain (stock cam gear, cloyes hd chain and cloyes oversized crank sprocket). Anything im missing? bigger injectors? And would it be better to pull the engine when i do it so i can do the valvetrain out of the car to make sure its 110% diled in? Any last words of advise from the pros whos been here done that.
Not sure I fall into the catagory as a "pro", but I crossed the half-century mark in age over a decade ago and have been screwing on these 'suckas' since Hector was a Pup. Here's my take on it, since you asked:

After reading all the back and forth on cam choice, one thing sticks out' The timing chain setup.

In all the 8 second quarter mile engines I've built over the years, not to mention all the engines I've built for myself, I've never mixed timing chain setups. They come as matched sets and even CompCams and Crane recommend against doing that. Sort of like mixing up or re-using flat tappet lifters and/or pushrods. It's just something I'd never do - but to each his own.

Right now I'm building a LT1 stroker (on a stand), with all the Eagle/SRP forged goodies, for my 96 Vette. Just finished degreeing the cam (running one of Comp's XFI offerings) and torquing down the heads. Plenty of new parts still on the way and a few more yet to be tracked down. (Anybody got a CPS reluctor for sale?)

Anyway, I wish you the best of luck with the new engine.

Jake
Old Jun 4, 2007 | 02:54 PM
  #48  
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ever tryed to pull the motor on a 4th gen? just dont.its the biggest pain in the *** from any car ive ever worked on.undere the hood of these things looks like a big block stuffed into an astro van.pulling the motor sucks.you did the right thing.
Old Jun 4, 2007 | 04:59 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by 11secgen
ever tryed to pull the motor on a 4th gen? just dont.its the biggest pain in the *** from any car ive ever worked on.undere the hood of these things looks like a big block stuffed into an astro van.pulling the motor sucks.you did the right thing.
that's where having a lift and unbolting the k-member for easy access comes in handy.
Old Jun 4, 2007 | 05:04 PM
  #50  
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Pulling the motor is hard unless you got a gutted engine bay like mine!! he he.. I was gonna pull my engine to do that because i have nothing in my engine bay, so pulling it for me would be a breeze. But i didnt and i think iv done more work with it in the car as opposed to if i just pulled the damn thing!
Old Jun 4, 2007 | 05:31 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by taubr unit
Pulling the motor is hard unless you got a gutted engine bay like mine!! he he.. I was gonna pull my engine to do that because i have nothing in my engine bay, so pulling it for me would be a breeze. But i didnt and i think iv done more work with it in the car as opposed to if i just pulled the damn thing!

I know the feeling. I'll be pulling the 350 LT1 out of my 96 Vette next week to make room for the new power plant. Not something I'm really looking forward to, but "Ya Gotta Do What Ya Gotta Do".

Jake
Old Jun 5, 2007 | 11:24 PM
  #52  
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well i got it all in and runs pretty decent. I still need to get a tune on it but for now it runs and nothing leaks so im all good in that area. At start up i was at 56psi of oil pressure and about 25 at hot idle. I think i need to play with my rockers a bit. How exactely are you guys setting the rockers? Other then that it runs and sounds good. Gotta wait for my tune and cam break in till i can really beat on it.
Old Jun 6, 2007 | 12:21 AM
  #53  
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847

Just turn the motor over till the exhaust pushrod starts to move up and adjust the intake valve to 0 lash so it turns easy with your fingers and no up and down play in it then its up to you what you adjust them to I set mine at 1/16 turn past 0 wich is really hard to judge an 1/8 turn would be easier to judge by eye. the less preload the better the motor will run at high rpms I wouldn't go past a 1/4 turn though. Once youve got intake valve adjusted turn the motor over till the intake valve opens all the way then continue till its about 2/3 of the way back closed and adjust the exhaust valve. Make sure you dont change your setting when you tighten the poly lock and make sure the poly lock is tight. Repeat for the other 7 cylinders and your good to go take your time make sure they're as close as you can get them so you dont have to do it again. Its alot of cranking but thats the only way to get them just right. Good luck and get a tune soon so you know your not just dumping fuel or leaning it out so you dont tear something up. theres really no break in period for a roller cam by the time you got everything buttoned up and drove it to check it out your ready to see what it'll do.
Old Jun 6, 2007 | 09:21 AM
  #54  
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ok cool. thanks. i think i may have a rocker hitting my valve cover also. we played around with the rockers a few times and im still getting a ticking so i gotta check that out.
Old Jun 6, 2007 | 10:47 AM
  #55  
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Yeah, definitley don't run that car without a tune on it.
Old Jun 6, 2007 | 02:14 PM
  #56  
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why not run it without a tune? is it really that far off?
Old Jun 6, 2007 | 03:18 PM
  #57  
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ive followed your threads from chitown. i got you on the tune.pm me on there
Old Jun 6, 2007 | 03:20 PM
  #58  
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i also got you on that valve lash ect. if you cant get it towed , then hit me up. itll cost you 85 for the tow and then well fix your car for free. thats how i roll.
Old Jun 6, 2007 | 04:09 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by taubr unit
ok cool. thanks. i think i may have a rocker hitting my valve cover also. we played around with the rockers a few times and im still getting a ticking so i gotta check that out.
which comp Roller rockers did u get???

I know with the pro magnums (not sure about the others) U have to cut out the inner valve cover supports on both VC and clearance the PCV breather on the passenger side valve cover by about an inch......

other wise they will hit , hell i dont even thing they will go one
Old Jun 6, 2007 | 06:48 PM
  #60  
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i got different valve covers. there tall aluminum ones. Theres no supports in them just a big "box" in them for the breather. i may need clearance for that. The one side thats still ticking, the valve cover was weird when i put it on but was too late for me to see whats goin on.

11secgen, PM sent bro.



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