Im about ready to put in my 847 cam. I got a whole new valvetrain for it (comp. RR's, 918 springs w/ ti retainers, seats and locators, 7/16 studs, gmpp guideplates, 7.2 pushrods) new timing chain (stock cam gear, cloyes hd chain and cloyes oversized crank sprocket). Anything im missing? bigger injectors? And would it be better to pull the engine when i do it so i can do the valvetrain out of the car to make sure its 110% diled in? Any last words of advise from the pros whos been here done that.

 

you can do it with the engine in the car once you get the radiator and condensor out you can stand there and work kinda comfortably. The injectors will work just have to turn the duty cycle up quite a bit but they will push enough for the power your making. I didn't know that a stock cam gear would work with the oversize crank gear the only oversize I've seen is a heavy duty roller style like the lt4 gears but maybe I didn't search that enough, also heard that you shouldn't use the oversize crank gear with a stock water pump makes the front cam bearing wear out faster. I'm in the process now of taking the dowel pin out of my 847 and and putting a long one back in and putting a cloyes double roller with vented opti and electric water pump wish I would have done it in the beginning before I tapped the dowel pin in for the old distributor. just take your time and pay close attention when you slide the cam in also when you adjust the rockers try to get them all real close and depending how much noise you like I set mine at 1/16 of a turn past zero and theyre not that noisy but the motor cranks alot better than 1/4 or 1/2 like most people set.

 

i have a EWP so ill be perfect with the oversized crank gear. all i got left is to pull the balancer and optu off and im home free.

 

yea the ewp will b nice. I just put one on a buddys car and it works great. Are you pulling the oil pan down? I put the cam in my stock motor and just left the pan on and it tore the front of the oil pan gasket, I just used plenty of rtv and put the piece back in and put the cover back on it worked great, never leaked now that Im tearing the 383 down to change stuff I took the pan down didn't want to tear a new gasket. I took my timing cover to a local welding shop and they welded the timing cover water pump hole up and it looks factory. I just pulled the water pump drive out of the block theres really no need to plug the whole alot of people do but theres a hole on each side of it so whats the point, good luck. Just a warning though my stock shortblock only lasted 10,000 miles I was cranking 6800 alot and hit 7000 quite a few times oil pressure finally went to nothing and spun 2 rod bearings and 2 main bearings. I only crank about 6600 with my 383 haven't had it on the dyno yet to see if theres any real gains to crank higher so well see.

 

yea, i only plan on 6300/6500 or so. see if i can make it last a little longer and sacrafice some power for it.

 

If you are only going to rev to that you should pick a different cam with a bowerband for that, you will be faster in the 1/4 with a cam matched to your powerband better, unless you are going to be dyno racing....

 

I agree, its pointless to put in that kind of cam only to choke it down.

 

ok, ill rev it to 7200 then and wait till i blow the motor then build a motor around that cam. thats my plans so for now that cam will do.

 

lt1 pcms are limited to 7k .

6700-6800 should work for that cam

 

Read the sig Cam loves every bit of 6800 rpms but the motor will die!!! I only had 67k on my engine when the bearing decided to let go. If your running the cam in plans of blowing the motor from spinning to 6800 or plans on choking it down because you don't want to spin it that high why even bother going through and installing it?

Not trying to be rude but what your saying and doing doesnt make sense your putting in a BIG cam but plan on spinning it down & killing some power to keep the engine alive why not just the smaller cam and make the most power and keep the engine together longer? You could get a custom cam that will keep the rpms down in the 6100-6200 rpm range and make good power.

 

i understand. iv been talking with a select few lt1 cam guys and they said the best off the shelf cam for what i want to do is this cam. im not just some "joe shmoe" thats tossing in the biggest cam i could find. iv done research for months now and talked with lt1 builders and thats what they suggest. so with that being said, iv picked my path and im sticking with it. its when you start changing stuff 1/2 way and get mismatched parts and then yuor car runs like junk. I know your trying to help and thats cool. But iv done soooo much research on all this crap i should be getting paid for a full time job. i almost got it done so hopefully this weekend well see how it runs.

 

Do you have some decent flowing heads to go with that cam? How many miles on the shortblock? Do you have the supporting mods to go with this cam besides the valvetrain? What PROS told you this cam is the way to go? Auto or stick? Do you at least have a mail-order tune to start it up? How about a sig?

 

Well then you need to start hanging around people that know what they are talking about. Throwing in a cam that wants to rev to 6800+ and only reving to 63-6400 is stupid, a cam that is ment to be used in that powerband will produce better track #'s. A cam like the 503 will be making more power everywhere in the RPM range that you want to rev to, but instead you are overcamming your car for your goals.

 

ahh let him do what he wants, just try to help him with getting it together. I put 10,000 miles on my stock shortblock a 1/4 mile at a time never babied it before I finally spun the bearings. If he has good oil pressure or puts in a higher pressure pump and doesn't free rev it like I did mine all the time his will probably last alot longer than mine did. I only had 18 psi at idle when i installed my cam. If he drives it normal and then just races it sometimes it'll probably last a long time, depending on current condition of the shortblock. But you definately want to get some ported heads if you dont have them some people run good on stock heads but thats just robbing power.

 

i do plan on getting better heads in the future. its a non stop process. iv recently starting posting here and seems like a lot of **** talkers on here (not you bowtie racing). I know im not gonna get all my power from the cam and all that. i know/heard it all. BUT in my defence i plan on building the motor up when it finally dies. So im not gonna put a stupid little cam in it now for the time being then need to buy ANOTHER cam later.... thats just ****in stupid!! So for now ill save my change for a motor and drive around a "slow" car that sounds like a 8sec. car. later guys.