i just installed the bbk 52mm tb, and is it supposed to sound like i have a supercharger? also i need to adjust the idle seems high right about 900 i think it needs to be at 700? i also did the TB bypass and instead of connecting the two hoses i just took the little hose off and connected the long hose where the little hose goes. Alot better than the connector way and the long bottom hose is plenty long enough. just a heads up so the tb bypass costed 0 dollars better than 3.

preformance wise i feel a definite SOTP difference

 

I noticed a small performance gain in mid range, no sound difference though. That throttle cable can be a B!t0h huh?

 

Did you guys need tunig for a new and bigger throttle body? Also, about the noise, I know a guy who had the same sound. He says he's been running it like that for a long time, with no problems... only that nobody wants to race him anymore. lol.

 

you dont need tuning, and i dont know about the noise looks like not everyone has it? dunno

 

I have the stock TB but when i let go of the gas at like 4000RPM on WOT. I get a woosh sounds which i think is coming from my CAI. Not sure but maybe its the trottle body

 

As far as RPM, you do know that the tachs usually read a couple hundred high?

And, of course, it makes a difference whether you are A-4 or M-6. My M-6 is set to idle at around 950 which works well with my baby cam.
My tach reads around 1150 to 1200.

 

well the tach used to sit right around 700 now its at 900.. its not really a whoosss sound but like a air sucking in all the time sound

 

If you have an automatic transmission and the 4L60E transmission you will likely need tuning for a larger throttlebody.

the shifts won't be right with the new throttle body.

 

You sure you got the elbow/bellow back on right?... the bottom of the lip isn't tucked back is it?

 

The "whistle" is a very common problem with the BBK. They don't bore the idle air passage out all the way, and leave casting flash in the opening. Cleaning things up should eliminate the whistle. I've been reading the same problem posted for over 5 years, and BBK still hasn't improved their quality in this area.

You may have the throttle stop screw out too far. Did you try backing it off slightly to bring the RPM down? A4 550 in gear/650rpm in neutral; M6 800rpm.

The correct way to set it requires a scanner. Back off on the throttle stop screw slowly, until you get the exact RPM on the scanner (eliminates the error of the typical tach). Then check the IAC counts to make sure they are between 20-40 counts. Then check the TPS voltage to insure the closed throttle voltage is in the range of 0.20-0.90V, with many people preferring 0.50-0.67V

Your solution to the bypass.... hooking the long hose up to the stub for the short one only works for 95-97 models. It is the 93/94 models that require the short connector.

 

where is the idle air passage that needs cleaning?i need to adjust that screw. I have to have the car tuned to fix the shift points?why does this happen? anyother way to fix them?

 

It is not the shift points it is the shift firmness and line pressure. The pcm scales shift firmness off of TPS, with the larger TB you are making more power at lower throttle position so more line pressure is needed otherwise you will prematurely wear the clutches which are already a weak point in this tranny.

 

should i just leave it how it shifts now then? more pressure is better right? and more firm? or will it mess up the trans some how?thanks