I'm a cam dummy!
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 290
From: Orlando, Florida
I'm a cam dummy!
Well I have a good excuse. When i was building up my 383 with my fathers help, he decided that a LT-4 HOTCAM would be almost too radical for my motor. I have to admit that its a nice cam(I bought the whole kit). I just wish I was going to make around 400RWHP which isnt going to happen with a hotcam in a 383. What cam should I use and is the GM 847 a good choice that will net me close to 400RWHP with some LT's??? I know you all can wack me with the dumb stick
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,800
The HOT cam in a stroker will be very mellow most will tell you down right too small. Sounds like your Dad is like mine, worked on old muscle cars and derived his knowledge from there, granted the engines have not changed all that radically but the rules have, he will not realize that till you put in a big cam and then he drives it. What heads are you planning to run?
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,931
From: Upstate NY
Originally posted by 96capricemgr
Sounds like your Dad is like mine, worked on old muscle cars and derived his knowledge from there, granted the engines have not changed all that radically but the rules have, he will not realize that till you put in a big cam and then he drives it.
LOL here. I'm a Muscle Car era guy, too, but try to keep up to date with things. Cam design has progressed many orders of magnitude since Mac McKellar was designing cams at Pontiac with mechanical calculators ('60s). I have been fortunate enough to know Mr. M, as well as one of the best around today, a Mr. G. from Comp.
Better design programs as well as roller lifters which allow aggressive profiles, and better production machinery, and better valve train parts have all contributed to better power/torque/driveability.
What heads are you planning to run?
This is THE question. The cam should be chosen after heads, intake, exhaust, intended use, gearing and driveability issues are determined. Think of the cam as the dependant variable which is the result of all the other stuff factored in.
IMO, if you don't spend some $ improving head flow, you aren't going to take much advantage of those extra cubes. Think seriously about head work before you do any more cam changing.
Don't be too hard on your ol' man.
My $.02
Sounds like your Dad is like mine, worked on old muscle cars and derived his knowledge from there, granted the engines have not changed all that radically but the rules have, he will not realize that till you put in a big cam and then he drives it.
LOL here. I'm a Muscle Car era guy, too, but try to keep up to date with things. Cam design has progressed many orders of magnitude since Mac McKellar was designing cams at Pontiac with mechanical calculators ('60s). I have been fortunate enough to know Mr. M, as well as one of the best around today, a Mr. G. from Comp.
Better design programs as well as roller lifters which allow aggressive profiles, and better production machinery, and better valve train parts have all contributed to better power/torque/driveability.
What heads are you planning to run?
This is THE question. The cam should be chosen after heads, intake, exhaust, intended use, gearing and driveability issues are determined. Think of the cam as the dependant variable which is the result of all the other stuff factored in.
IMO, if you don't spend some $ improving head flow, you aren't going to take much advantage of those extra cubes. Think seriously about head work before you do any more cam changing.
Don't be too hard on your ol' man.
My $.02
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 290
From: Orlando, Florida
Well this is the best description i could come up with my heads when i had seen them last week before all the accessories were bolted on......
I dont know much about port work but when i looked at my motor before the install i could tell where they took a little over 1/4 inch of material off the intake ports to make it smooth and it gets bigger as it nears the intake(looks like a square funnel with rounded edges and i can tell when i look into the motor i can see where there has been machine work on the metal surrounding the valve(sorry for lack of technical term). Other than that i couldnt see anything else. And the guy said he performed a 5-angle valve job and the heads were plained and the block was decked(compression??). And the exhaust ports were machined lightly.
I dont know much about port work but when i looked at my motor before the install i could tell where they took a little over 1/4 inch of material off the intake ports to make it smooth and it gets bigger as it nears the intake(looks like a square funnel with rounded edges and i can tell when i look into the motor i can see where there has been machine work on the metal surrounding the valve(sorry for lack of technical term). Other than that i couldnt see anything else. And the guy said he performed a 5-angle valve job and the heads were plained and the block was decked(compression??). And the exhaust ports were machined lightly.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,931
From: Upstate NY
Originally posted by Briank8811
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Or you could take a poll. That's free.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,525
From: SoCal
Originally posted by OldSStroker
Or you could take a poll. That's free.
Or you could take a poll. That's free.
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