LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Idle from HELL!!!!!!

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Old Jun 12, 2004 | 10:52 PM
  #16  
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From: Little Rock, AR
Originally posted by Deenasty
Well I just unplugged the hose that goes from the EGR solinoid to the valve, and took it for a quick drive, and seems to idle fine now!!!! Occasionally it will drop a bit, but quickly come back up. So i guess I will be replacing both the valve and solinoid monday, thanks a million ShoeBox!! You never fail to enlighten me !!
If you had it hooked up correctly, it sounds like the solenoid is stuck open or it is getting a constant signal to open.
Old Jun 14, 2004 | 01:35 AM
  #17  
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Well I took the car out, and it is doing it again. I took the solinoid and valve off today, and manually moved the valve back and forth. Cant really tell if it is bad, because I dont know what to look for. But I guess I am going to replace both tomorrow (OUCH). I have replaced everything on this car now!!! The valve has and "N" at the end of the part number, so I guess it is a negative. What can be causing the idle to be that low? Valve being open, or valve being closed? Thanks Shoebox

One last note. I noticed on your page where you have the EGR diagram, that the hose that goes from the manifold to the solinoid, attatches to the LEFT side of the two attatchments on the back side of the solinoid. And then the one on the RIGHT side of the attatchments, attatches to the EGR valve. Being that my motor is out of a 93, Im not sure if the setup is different, but mine are reversed. The manifold hose runs to the right side of the two attatchments, and the one on the LEFT goes to the valve. Can this be the problem?

Last edited by Deenasty; Jun 14, 2004 at 01:54 AM.
Old Jun 14, 2004 | 08:50 AM
  #18  
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The way you describe your hose routing sounds like what is on my site. The hoses on the solenoid are molded together, so I don't think you could have them both connected and be wrong.

pic

diagram


The valve staying open would cause poor idle. If the valve is not sticking and it opens when you apply vacuum to it and will hold the vacuum ok, then closes when you release the vacuum, I would say it was ok.

The solenoid should allow vacuum to pass through it when it is energized and not pass vacuum when it is not energized. At idle, it should not be energized.
Old Jun 14, 2004 | 11:23 AM
  #19  
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you see the hoses at my solenoid are reverse. Would that make a difference? What I mean by reverse is that the two hoses at the back of the solenoid are just in there opposite attatchments..Like the hose was removed from its individual rubber "L" boot, and swapped in the wrong boot.

Last edited by Deenasty; Jun 14, 2004 at 11:47 AM.
Old Jun 14, 2004 | 12:47 PM
  #20  
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From: Little Rock, AR
Originally posted by Deenasty
you see the hoses at my solenoid are reverse. Would that make a difference? What I mean by reverse is that the two hoses at the back of the solenoid are just in there opposite attatchments..Like the hose was removed from its individual rubber "L" boot, and swapped in the wrong boot.
I don't know if the 93 is somehow different (I doubt it), but just as long as there is no vacuum flow when the valve is not operated, then you are ok. If it is hooked up backwards it might let vacuum through.
Old Jun 14, 2004 | 01:43 PM
  #21  
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I am going to replace the vacuum EGR solenoid today, and route the tubing the way you have it on your site, I hope all is fixed after that. Is there anyway to clean the valve, besides by just cleaning the opening with a rag?
Old Jun 15, 2004 | 12:14 AM
  #22  
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Well I routed them the right way, and turned out it was my IAC counts. I scanned it, and they were at 160!! I adjusted the screw, and got them down to about 27. Is this where they should be? Now I experience a slight bit of a high idle, and when I come to a stop it takes a while to idle down...Thanks ShoeBox!
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