I am looking for a trend related to the oil in the K&N filters, FIPK and any other filter using Oil.

First by reading many postings it seems as if many of you are fixing your hesitation by cleaning the MAF with Electronic Parts Cleaner and even Windex... Others have had bad low RPM hesitation that seemed to go away by replacing the IAT. One guy is reporting his IAT was off by 40 degrees, other that his IAT did not change reading at all when the engine went from cold to full operating temp.

This is kind of a Poll... how many of you who have had the Low RPMs hesitation related to either the MAF or the IAT have also any type of filter that uses Oil on it? I have the OEM stocker and my MAF is clean... no oil no dirt and I have 140k miles on it. I just read a post of a guy who states he uses too much oil on his K&N and to the point where his cars puffs smoke when he first starts it, and also read posts of people having to clean the oil off their MAFs.... I am like oil?? from where... My IAT seem to be working just fine but I am beginin to suspect some of the IATs that have gone bad may have to do with Oil coating the sensor and chemically interacting with the sensor at the molecular level perhaps .... I really dont see oil shorting out the sensor but something is telling me there is a relationship between oil and bad IATs.


So the ones who had a low RPM hesitation fixed... related to either MAF or IAT and any type of Oiled Air filter installed in their cars please raise your hands and be counted....

also anyone with the stock airfilter suffering with the same problem??


***I have the Stocker and no problems after 140k miles***

knock on wood


Marvin

 

LOL. It's about 2:10 in the morning , and I was checking some of the 2000rpm miss stumble post, to try and see what guys/gals have come up with . I have had my car (1995 TA) for I think over 4 years , and have had the miss for probably about the whole time. I read these post every time I see one, and have been checking boards for years to try and solve it. I was going through the post, and especailly noticed the one by you and Z28Boss lately ,as they make sense, and a few people responded and said it helped. I even just checked back in the INFAMOUS now 23 page hessitation thread as I do every so often.

The reason I started the post of with LOL... Is because it's funny but it after 2:10 in the morning , and I was was just putting 2 and 2 together after reading post for months, and even years on this subject especially about how cleaning the MAF has workded for some, and was thinking about starting this same post. LOL. I was gonna call it somethng like, "How many of you with the 2000rpm stubmle/hesitation have K&N filters".

Before I clicked on this post, I actually just went back through some of the 23 pages of the now famous hesitation post after I read your earlier post , and also those from Z28Boss about how a new IAT sensor, or possibly cleaning your old one fixed or (could fix) your problems. I JUST read you guy's latest posts, and was starting to think about the same K&N oil relation.

I had just finished going back through the 23 pages a few minutes ago, to check the mods in the sig of some of the people that posted, as well as you guys latest post. LOL. I had decided not to start the K&N oil post, and just decided to look back at the latest threads in general on any topic before I got of the computer, to see what was new or got taken to the top before I got of the computer, ..and low and behold I see this up there. LOL.

Anyways , that was long enough, but I think you guys may be on to something after all these years. At least for some . Hopefully this will be the answer for many with the problem.

 

I have the stock air filter in it NOW.. im not sure what the jackass who had my car before me did though (well besides put rivets in my door and other dumb things).. he could have just switched it back when he sold it.. but as of now I have a stock air filter and have these problems.. ive had the hesitation since I bought the car though.. its goin into the shop wednesday though so hopefully itll be all fixed up.

 

You never know, but i would be willing to bet , that quite a few people would try and clean stock filters with the K&N or other typs of oil/cleaner to.

Off course , sensors can and do get fouled or dirty without the stuff (oil) to, and sometimes just go bad or get old, but it just seems like it makes sense, and seems like it COULD be the POSSIBLE cause for SOME of our problems..... Hopefully.... cause it sure would be nice to fix the problem for less than 15 bucks. (Or whatever an IAT senosor or electrical contact cleaner cost.)




Oh. By the way, to the original question of the post. I (raising hand) have a K&N filter. Maybe you could get the poll % and graph at the top of this post if it isn't already up there.

 

I am glad someone else besides me is kinda putting the two things together... honestly if you read and keep tabs you will see as for how many guys are reporting "cleaning the MAF" and having good results. As for the IAT, it is a Thermistor and its life-span maybe limited under the operating conditions. I mean from 220 degrees to whatever low temp and back up again... speciall for those who live in cold weather and go from back to back traffic (heat soak) to 65 miles per hour (freezing air rushing past the overheated IAT)in a matter of seconds, I can see how it could eventually ruin it but what really catches my eyes is that it appears as if the guys are cleaning oil from the MAF tiny resistors but no-one is wondering where its coming from.

On the other hand I am kind of disapointed with the response I had on this post... Its amazing however how most spend awfull amounts of money and time but (base on my readings) very few checked the themp sensors... its as if they expected to get a code first... some of things dont just stop operating instantaneously... they may just simply be slow responding to the fast changes our engines go through.... and that most defenetely will not throw a code unless the PCM is keeping tabs on how quickly the sensors respond.. The Oxygen sensors could be the exception though.. I read that on the OBD-II the PCM actually compares the response time of the after-Cat sensors to the pre-cat oxygen sensors... the Rear ones are supossed to act so much more slowly due to the Cat burning all remaining oxygen but when the sensors begin to follow up the pre-cat sensors then the PCM know something is wrong and throws a code.

Anyway I am begining to believe that oil is slowly coating the sensors and rendering them useless.... At least oil and dirt on the MAF seems to be causin a lot of trouble and people are begining to realize it too. I dunno about using Windex to clean them though, If I spray windex on a mirror and let it dry it will leave some residue and if I wipe it off I have to wipe it real good else it will leave residue and I am sure as I am alive that I dont want to keep wiping the Windex off the delicate resistors in the MAF.

Marvin

 

where and what is the IAT? thanks, my car didnt start to hesitate untill i put the k&n cai, i dunno if its just coincidence. i got a 93 z28 so i dont have a MAF, so i dunno. thanks

 

SuperAdobo the IAT is located on the Rubber intake Bellows right about the Throtle body... when you look at your engine bay from the front of your car on the left hand side of the bellows there is a two wire sensor sticking out from the bellows about 2 to three inches away from the Throttle body... right on top of the rubber bellows and the very turn.... two wires... you cant miss it as its visible from just about any angle.


Marvin

 

I also was expecting to see several responses to this post when I got on today. I agree also about the part where you say some expect to get a code. I find that to be a problem on this board with diagnostics is that too many people think that any time there is a problems you get a code, and that if there is no code the everything is ok. Many don't actually look at the readings , or they would actually see that the sensor reading may be staying at a given reading or the values may not be changing like they should. For some of the guys that have solved there problems, they have done it by actually checking the readings.

I remeber one guy found his problem because I think he saw that the readings from the MAF were either wrong or not changing.

Some don't think about dirty, fouled ,etc. sensors giving a false reading to the computer which could cause driveability and power loss, since there is no trouble code. They don't know that in many cases , there will be no code, because there is nothing wrong mechanically, or electrically with the sensor, and that the computer is still getting input within the correct parameters from the computer... It's just that these readings are wrong. So they see no code and think all is well. I think again that is one of the worst problems here, is that many think if there is not code, it's allright.

You have probably noticed how many of the post mentioned that they got the car scanned for codes ,and there were none. But only a few guys actually mentioned or probably looked at the readings because there is no SES light. And off course there have been cases were the sensor was actually bad but did not give a code when it probably should have. I think as more people start doing diagnostics , instead of waiting for the SES or code, more people will fix there problems. Hopelly these latest hesitation post will help some though. I think a few people have already said it worked for them.

 

I agree w/ Rpm280! If you want to chase down a problem you definiately should invest in a datalogging setup. Get your cable, d/l the free software, get (rent) a laptop and your ready to go.
Without datalogging, hunting down problems like this is nearly impossible. You can do the "trial and error" type of thing but that'd be reaaaly expensive.

I had my low rpm (1000-2000rpm) hesitation solved by looking at the BLMs. I found out the car was flooded with fuel in the 1000-2000rpm range b/c of leaky injectors on both sides.

No hesitation since than!

 

I love you man


Now if we can find more man like you on this site... we will put the overpaid mechanics at the GM Dealer out of their missery


OR...at least we can save ourselfs bookoo money!!



Case closed

 

No wait guys wait.... I said that cause I really hate to overpay somone who is supposed to be qualified and have him/her just thrwo parts at my car and charge me for it.... without actually fixin the problem.

And I lost my faith on GM when the parts Jockey got pissed at me when I disagreed with him. I told him my car DID COME WITH FACTORY SHOCKS" at all four corners. He told me my car didnt. He said my car HAS SPRINGS in the back therefore there wasnt any need for Shocks....

The Nimitz Highway Chevy Dealer right by the Honolulu Airport... I hope they read this post.... I did not buy the shocks from you guys cause your Car Parts specialist could not sell me what my car didnt come with in the first place.... you guys listening??


Oh and I didnt intend to offend anyone on this website either... I just want to bring my point across..


Marvin

 

You just brought a tear to my eyes. LOL.

 

If you read back the big "Hesitation off idle" thread, you can find my post about this.