Alright, so today on my way to work my car started acting weird. When I would lift my foot off the gas pedal and let it idle, the rpms would start to drop and it would feel like it was about to stall. The rpms would dip into like 500 then rise back up by themselves to well over 1000 (where it usually idles). Then when I was backing up, I would release the gas and instead of the rpms dropping it would stay approximately the same for a while and then drop. Also, when I would put it into first and release the clutch and get on the gas the car would almost stall, then hesitate for a bit, and then get going. It just felt like it wasn't getting enough fuel when it needed it or something. I'm going to have a good amount of money soon, which I was going to use for other things (OE Wheels Corvette replicas, Koni shocks, Strano springs, etc.) but I guess I wouldn't mind setting up a good fuel and/or ignition system for when I get my valve work done later on. So, any ideas on what it could be? I most likely won't be taking it to a mechanic until next week. Well, thanks.

 

Actually when idling, sometimes it sounded really choppy like if I had a cam installed or something. Which was actually funny because i was worrying about it sounding choppy if I got the 226 cams with the LE2 heads. So, it sounded like a drag car but when you gave it gas, it just slept. lol.

 

Have you checked the fuel pressure? Sounds like some of it could be a faulty TPS. Is the check engine light on?

 

Actually, the check engine light did come on the other day. But then after I turned it off and started it back up again. It went away. So, I was planning on getting a new TB anyway. Could that and a new TPS (which I guess would be available at any autoparts store) most likely fix it? Thanks.

And, no. Haven't checked fuel pressure yet.

 

I would check the fuel pressure before doing anything drastic like taking it to a shop..try changing the fuel filter if it has not been done in a while.

 

Alright, so what do you guys think? Replace the TPS (~$30), replace fuel filter (~10), and check fuel pressure. Also, getting a new throttlebody, most likely an Edelbrock, and maybe clean the MAF.

 

I would also check the idle air control sensor(IAC),that would cause the car not idle as well..remove it from the tb,spray it with some carb cleaner,let it air dry or use light compressed air,spray some WD-40 on the spring and reinstall..follow Shoe boxs page on how to reset it.

 

So your car idles at over 1000rpm regularly that sounds like a problem in itself

 

It doesn't matter that you turned the engine off. Once the SES light comes on, the code is stored, and remains in the PCM until you pull the power to the PCM, intentionally reset it with a scanner, or drive quite a few "drive cycles" without the same problem coming back.

Scan it. It makes more sense than spending money on parts you have no idea whether are needed or not.

 

No bro. My car tends to idle around 1000 (a little more a little less, but around there). What i meant was that the rpms would dip down (to about 500 rpm) and the car would almost stall out, and then when i thought it was going to stall out, the rpms would rise by themselves to well over 1000 rpm. And this was in neutral with the car just sitting there idling, after a short peaceful drive. Full tank of 93 octane gas bought at the same place I've been buying it since I've had the car.

 

Good sense. I'll take it to Advance Auto Parts. I think they do free scans there. And thanks.

 

dodge69874:
Scanning for problem codes is always a good idea. BUT if your problem is caused by a sticking IdleAirControl valve (I think it probably is) then I don't believe any codes are directly set by that trouble.

 

Alright, so the problem comes and goes. Like today, it was fine. Started up great. Had a nice drive to school, then once I arrived on campus, it started up again. I think it occurs when the car heats up. Though temp marks great (around 160-180), but when it started doing the same thing as always (rpm drop to ~500, almost stalls out but doesn't), I noticed the oil pressure drops very low too and the check gauges light came up. Now, I attribute this to the relation between rpm and oil pressure (as rpms drop or raise so does oil pressure), so I didn't think much of it. I checked my oil levels, they're right where they should be, and was changed about 1000 miles ago.

But yeah, yesterday, as i drove to work after school (car was already warmed up), the problem was nonstop. Every time I stopped the rpms would drop significantly, and it would have a hard time taking off in 1st. But this morning it started up great. So, could this be attributed to a faulty IAC valve? Or should I check my spark plugs and wires. The wires all have heat wrap and are away from the headers so I don't think they should be a problem. But I had intended on changing them any ways. So, what does it sound like it could be? Thanks.

 

Did the SES light come on again? While there are no codes for the IAC valve, you indicated in your first post that you had an SES light.

The auto parts stores typically only scan OBD-II (96 and up).

 

No, the check engine light has not come up again since the first time, which was about a week ago.