Disconnect at least one of the O2's. This will force the control into open loop. Still doesn't prove the O2's are the cause. The only way to know that is to watch the signals real time.

But it will tell you if the problem is in closed loop control.

However I too believe you have a dead cylinder. Since it's easier to diagnose than anything you have done so far. Why don't you check it?

 

I have TTS datamaster and the left o2 is brand new and you can see is oscillates normally, the PCM told me it was bad so I replaced. Still have a small miss at idle, the car feels slower and getting poping on decel. No engine codes. I logged a run and you can see the right o2 goes dead to 400mv at idle and the left o2 oscliates. Then starts reading "somewhat" upon throttling up.

 

How would I check for a dead cylinder? I have disconnected one of the O2's and the car runs the same there was no change.

 

If you pull either the plug wire or the injector harness off and there is no difference in the way it idles. You have found the bad cylinder.

Then you have to figure out if it has a problem with either compression, fuel or spark causing it to not fire.

If you waited long enough with the O2 unhooked and the engine running, and there was no difference. Then you know the problem is not in the closed loop control system.

 

Ok I unhooked every injector one by one and there was a slight change on every cylinder, but not a huge change. My oil also smells like gas. I checked the fuel pressure, fpr, and injectors; all seem to be fine. Could a bad opti cause the car to run rich; it does not smoke at all, but it smells like gas.

 

Well of course the opti like any distributor could cause a firing issue but didn't you say this:
When you checked the injectors, did you lift them out of the intake and look at the nozzles with the fuel system pressurized when you checked for leaks? And also drew a vacuum on the fpr vac line to check it for leaks? That is if the "new" one you put on was defective.

When you checked the fuel pressure, did you leave the gage on it after the engine was shut down to see if the pressure dropped? That would tell you if the 2 items above might be leaking?

I think the only way you're going to find the problem is to look at the O2 signals while also looking at the fuel trims.

A little more investigation and a little less shotgun would help the problem much less your wallet. Unless you have dough to burn, and if that's the case, I could use a little.

 

I have done everything here except I have not drew vacuum on the fpr. I have checked the vacuum line and it was free of any gas smell. I have changed the opti but with a autozone opti and a msd cap and rotor that I had come unscrewed on a previous autozone opti that missed bad in the higher rpms.

 

I think I am going to install a stock type timing chain and new crank sensor ring. Then I am going to send the pcm to madz28 and have the crank sensor tuned in. That way I can detect miss fire. Looking at $150 for all that.

 

Stock injectors?

 

Stock injectors and 24lb ford svo's, both run rich.

 

Throw more money at it but this time only for monitoring. Great.


You were given the best idea on how to find the problem by Speedy's last message. You only want direction. No one here has a silver bullet. I'm out of here.

 

I have a scanner. If I were to hook it up, what should I look for in regards to the O2 signals? I have no idea what they should be. Here are some number I collected in the past I have a knock retard of 1.6
Knock sensor activity counts of 2061
A/F is 14.7
IPA1 is 4.56
IAP2 is 4.44
o2 sensor 1 bank 1 is 603.3
o2 sensor 1 bank 2 is 121.5
MAP is 15.7
MAPV is 2.27
BARO is 29.6
BAROV IS 4.76
TPSV is 0.67

 

The first log is with the bad o2, then I replaced it with a new AFS75 and now its performing as it should. Lines are hard to see because I downsized the graph to jpg format.