i think i figured out how to get rid of the HI RPM MISS atleast on my car
#1
i think i figured out how to get rid of the HI RPM MISS atleast on my car
I had the idle hesitation and the high rpm stumble, back fire, what ever ya call it...
Ok if ya see in my sig. of all the things that are done to the car.. not a whole lot but enough to play with...
i have had for almost 3 years the problem like every one else has had, i have changed the opti, coil wires plugs, egr and all... and it still did it...
being the cat is gutted i decided that the EGR and the AIR pump arent needed. So i made a plate, got the gasket and blocked off the EGR.
Blocked the openings on the 2 spots where hoses used to be (the pipe on the manifolds to the air pump and on the intact goin to the MAF.)
took off the throttle body, cleaned it good, took off the IAC and cleaned it good aswell. then ran some carb cleaner through the engine.
then i tested the sensors... the only one i am questioning is the MAP...
It says while using a volt meter (in the Haynes repair manuel) that on the plug that goes to the map sensor the Reference voltage (A) (black wire (-) and the (C) grey wire (+) (two out side terminals with the key in the run possition car still being off shoul be showing and average of 5 volts. mine shower 4.9, then 5.1
the Siignal voltage which is the (A) black wire (-) and the (B) green wire (+) should with key on and engine off, should read and average of 4.5 to 5 volts mine reads 0.00 so there is a problem there.. i have not figured out yet what is cuasing that...
but i have ran the car like prob 6 times at 70 degrees out side usually even at 50 degrees it would act up and through my town in traffic, stopped and talked and the car will run great shift good.. no more miss... nothin...
the best it has ran in years...
but if anything changes or i find out anything else i will let ya all know...
sorry this is so long..
Jason
hope this sheds some light or helps some people
Ok if ya see in my sig. of all the things that are done to the car.. not a whole lot but enough to play with...
i have had for almost 3 years the problem like every one else has had, i have changed the opti, coil wires plugs, egr and all... and it still did it...
being the cat is gutted i decided that the EGR and the AIR pump arent needed. So i made a plate, got the gasket and blocked off the EGR.
Blocked the openings on the 2 spots where hoses used to be (the pipe on the manifolds to the air pump and on the intact goin to the MAF.)
took off the throttle body, cleaned it good, took off the IAC and cleaned it good aswell. then ran some carb cleaner through the engine.
then i tested the sensors... the only one i am questioning is the MAP...
It says while using a volt meter (in the Haynes repair manuel) that on the plug that goes to the map sensor the Reference voltage (A) (black wire (-) and the (C) grey wire (+) (two out side terminals with the key in the run possition car still being off shoul be showing and average of 5 volts. mine shower 4.9, then 5.1
the Siignal voltage which is the (A) black wire (-) and the (B) green wire (+) should with key on and engine off, should read and average of 4.5 to 5 volts mine reads 0.00 so there is a problem there.. i have not figured out yet what is cuasing that...
but i have ran the car like prob 6 times at 70 degrees out side usually even at 50 degrees it would act up and through my town in traffic, stopped and talked and the car will run great shift good.. no more miss... nothin...
the best it has ran in years...
but if anything changes or i find out anything else i will let ya all know...
sorry this is so long..
Jason
hope this sheds some light or helps some people
#3
who can i talk to(a goo electonic person who knows these cars) to find out about what wires come and go from, i think i may have a broken sensor wire aswell but am not sure where to start tracing from, but car atill is runnin good
thin there is still a problem in my map/maf area
jason
thin there is still a problem in my map/maf area
jason
#6
no i did not replace the sensor.
ther is suppesed to be volts coming from both side of the plug... (i am talkin about the wires from the harness....
the sensor is not getting the correct amounts of power to work correctly
this is part of the problem .
but by doing the air pump, and EGR removal, and cleaving the IAR sensor and housing it made a very noticable difference.
back to teh map sensor, to try to clear it up...
teh wire that comes off the wiring harness to the MAP sensor if tested on a volt meeter , one side is supposed to read 5 volts (aprox) and the other 4.5 to 5 volts...
one side of my plug is dead, meaning when plugged in the MAP is not getting all the power it needs to work...
it controls fuel delivery and ignition timing
it may make it a lil better...
remember if the egr gets stuck open, and the map is dumping fuel in hard.. it can over load the engine
jason
ther is suppesed to be volts coming from both side of the plug... (i am talkin about the wires from the harness....
the sensor is not getting the correct amounts of power to work correctly
this is part of the problem .
but by doing the air pump, and EGR removal, and cleaving the IAR sensor and housing it made a very noticable difference.
back to teh map sensor, to try to clear it up...
teh wire that comes off the wiring harness to the MAP sensor if tested on a volt meeter , one side is supposed to read 5 volts (aprox) and the other 4.5 to 5 volts...
one side of my plug is dead, meaning when plugged in the MAP is not getting all the power it needs to work...
it controls fuel delivery and ignition timing
it may make it a lil better...
remember if the egr gets stuck open, and the map is dumping fuel in hard.. it can over load the engine
jason
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sleeperZ96BT
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06-05-2005 09:33 PM