LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

A.I.R. question...

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Old 09-11-2011, 09:35 PM
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A.I.R. question...

Bringing up an old convo again. I have used the search function and all the threads on this are swamped with multiple people jumping in and hijacking threads with different years and setups that I can't get a clear defined answer so I'm posting my own.

I want to delete the A.I.R. system. Basically what I have found is that I will need M22 oil plugs to block the manifolds off and a 3/4" vacuum cap for the pump air source on my air intake. Is this all that needs to be blocked? Completely removing any hoses or lines that are attached to the pump and assume this system does not interfere or cross with another system such as EGR which I am leaving.

Sorry for bringing it up again and beating this topic, I honestly couldn't find a thread which allowed a straight answer for me.
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Old 09-12-2011, 05:26 AM
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Re: A.I.R. question...

I used copper gaskets under the M22 drain plugs. I thought the vacuum cap for the nipple on the air intake duct was 5/8". Some headers use different threads or even caps rather than plugs.

Only the 93 combined the plumbing for the AIR and EGR.
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:18 AM
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Re: A.I.R. question...

The pipe that runs to the passenger side vacuum check....I saw in a thread how this pipe/line will need to be cut/broken to actually get it out and off?
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:20 AM
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Re: A.I.R. question...

Yep, it has to be cut. No other (reasonable) way to remove it whole.
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:29 AM
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Re: A.I.R. question...

Oh, sooo sad! thanks.
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:55 AM
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Re: A.I.R. question...

Ok, and just to make sure...I have stock manifolds, so the oil plugs will be 22's for sure?

Also having a hard time getting the line that comes out of the manifold off anyways, will JUST line screw out or is the line and the hex shaped bolt the line threads into one part or come out together? The manifold is still hot but not making it any easier to help get it out.

Last edited by JGuy07; 09-12-2011 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 09-12-2011, 11:35 AM
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Re: A.I.R. question...

The bolt comes out with the tube.
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Old 09-12-2011, 01:03 PM
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Re: A.I.R. question...

The bolts are warped ridiculously and they might be cross threaded. Not worth the risk of using an impact or something I don't wna crack the manifold and be totally out of luck. Passed on using a torch now since I don't want to damage them further, PB Blast didn't help all. I'm capping them off at the valves for now until I can get around to getting it done right.

Last edited by JGuy07; 09-12-2011 at 02:01 PM.
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Old 09-12-2011, 02:02 PM
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Re: A.I.R. question...

Buy Kroil......far better than PB blaster.

Those fittings can be a real pain. If they are factory and never been touched....dont be suprised if they wont come out, without a great deal of heat. If worse comes to worse, cut the tubes off right above the Hex and tap for a new plug. If you have access to a MIG or TIG, you can cut the tube 1" above the fitting, pinch the tube and weld it. Its a low grade of Stainless but a Mild steel wire will weld it up fine. Becareful of fuel system.

When welding make sure you disconnect battery and PCM.
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Old 09-12-2011, 02:16 PM
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Re: A.I.R. question...

Yea, I had my grandfather come and take a look and he said the same thing. But insisted I just cap them for now until I know I have the time to do that if needed. Eventually I'm gna get a torch to heat them and go that way. All I have now is a small propane tank w/ burner, or whatever it is. He told me he could pinch the line and weld it up. Either way serves the same purpose I guess. But I'm capping it at the valves for now until then...
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