1st off I have searched, but not found answers for my questions...

I am in the process of planning my 383 stroker buildup. i am buying the stock LT1 block this weekend for the monster. I have a set of fully ported LT4 heads/intake manifold that Jordon Musser is finishing up as we speak. He said they should flow rather well I also have a 3600 Yank stall convertor to go with this motor combo. I will also be getting a custom Cam Motions camshaft to piece my entire combo together.


My goals for this buildup is a good cruiser motor that will see some nitrous at the track. I am building it for a driver, not a trailer queen. I drive the Hot Rod Power Tour every year, so this motor is going to need to be able to do some sustained driving duties (this summer's tour for me is going to be just over 3700 miles).

My basic questions are:

What is a good crank to use with the intentions of spraying about a 200 (maybe 250) wet shot at the track, which I go to about twice a month in the summer? I was thinking a Callies Dragonslayer.

I am completely lost as to which rods to use. I was thinking of some H-Beam 5.85 length, but I don't know if these would be optimal for my setup. I know I want forged rods, but which ones would you guys suggest???

Are there any special machining items I need done to this block to help it be a little more daily driver friendly??? I have heard of something about "filling the block" What does this do?

I guess, if anyone can just direct me in a good plan for this motor buildup, I would appreciate it.
Thanks

 

I would get an Eagle setup...They can be gotten for a decent price fully forged. I'd also use the 6" rods. The machine shop will need to clearence the block for the stroker app. You can grind the valley smooth, to help with oil drain back. You can also put vents where the oil would drain onto the cam from the valley as it will help with crankcase ventilation. This will also keep the oil going where it needs to. Get a good dbl roller timing set to keep cam events happy, and a high volume oil pump...forget the high pressure as it'll just cause the bearings to spin. tell the machine shop to set clearences up tight, so that they are within .002-.003 for the mains and the rods. That'll help ensure the motor lasts a little while. If you want to have a little fun with it, have them offset grind the crank to add a minor amount to the total ci. Definately DO NOT fill the block!! If you did that, after a few heat cycles you would cause the block to expand, loosen the hard block and really screw with your cooling system. A nice electric H2O pump would be nice, as well as a DelTeq or LTCC to make sure you don't have to worry about opti's letting go. Aside from that the cam and heads should be ready to rock, and you should easily see over 400FWHP.

Chris

 

I went with the Scat 4340 3.75 Stroke and Scat Pro-Line 4340 H-Beam rods 6'' rods. The block took minimal clearing and it was ballanced spot on with no heavy metal. I also went with the SRP pistons but the JE may be a better choice if you plan on using a healthy shot. Sounds like you should have an awsome combo when all is said and done,

 

So with an occasional big shot (anywhere from 200 to 300), what length rods am I going to need?

How good of a crank is the Callies Dragonslayer?

Are Lunati Pro Mod rods good?

Also, what kind of rings and other items will I need with this type of buildup.

 

Callies Dragonslayer and Lunati Pro-Mod rods are a great choice and definitely a step up from Eagle, though a bit more expensive.

Rich

 

im going to use a cola crank and lunati pro mod rods. and je pistions.

 

If you may spray it, don't skimp on anything in your bottom end. I would use the Callies crank, Oliver 5.85" billet rods, and JE pistons. Its a "bullet proof" combo, but it is not cheap...Lingenfelter used to use this combo before it got a little too cost prohibitive and they went to a Lunati set up, which is good, but not as good...I've got 10 years and all kinds of track/street time on my Callies, Oliver, JE set up...I'm not spraying, but I would have confidence in putting a 200 shot on it...
--Alan

 

That is kind of what I was thinking, Callies Dragonslayer, Lunati Pro-mod rods, and JE pistons. I know this is more expensive, but I still believe in "you get what you pay for."

Let's say i go with that combo. What are teh other items I am going to need?? Rings and seals??? What would you all recommend in that department to go with this setup.

 

You can use SRP pistons. They are made by the same company and I called JE a few times and told them what I was building, how much nitrous I would be using and they advised me to go with the SRP everytime.

 

Our rotating assemblies are very similar, and I'm happy with the Scat value and quality.

 

What length rods would be ideal for me? 5.85??? Remember I need sustained driving ability, with the occasional spray. The motor isn't going to be a "nitrous motor", it just needs the ability to sustain a good size shot when need be.

Thanks again guys.