i need to b better from a roll
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 114
From: Butler IN
If he can find a used set, TOGs are the best headers made for the L67. Unfortunately, TOGs went out of business 3 years ago and people who bought them, really hold onto them.
For his KR problem, has your bro ziptied all of this dipsticks or anything else that can cause false KR to something stable? I know the tranny dipstick kinda shakes and the oil dipstick can vibrate on the exhaust manifold. Another thing about the 97's (my GTP was a '97) was that the ABS system pulls timing. So at the track, I would pull both ABS fuses in the glove box out. The brakes still work, but disable ABS entirely. Yet another thing would be to put in a little 5ohm resistor into the IAT sensor. It will fool the computer into thinking it's 5*(depending on where you live, this might not matter. Here in AZ it helped me out.) and give you more fuel to help fight detonation. And last but not least, if he hasn't done it, swap to a 180 drilled t-stat or a 160* stat, flush out the radiator put in water and 2 bottles of water wetter. All these things got me down from 8* KR to ZERO KR in 120* AZ summer temps.
I'm not big on stall knowledge, but 3K is the minimum stall you should look into. And 3.73s would be a great step up from your 2.73s. You should easily drop .5 in the 1/4 just by adding gears.
For his KR problem, has your bro ziptied all of this dipsticks or anything else that can cause false KR to something stable? I know the tranny dipstick kinda shakes and the oil dipstick can vibrate on the exhaust manifold. Another thing about the 97's (my GTP was a '97) was that the ABS system pulls timing. So at the track, I would pull both ABS fuses in the glove box out. The brakes still work, but disable ABS entirely. Yet another thing would be to put in a little 5ohm resistor into the IAT sensor. It will fool the computer into thinking it's 5*(depending on where you live, this might not matter. Here in AZ it helped me out.) and give you more fuel to help fight detonation. And last but not least, if he hasn't done it, swap to a 180 drilled t-stat or a 160* stat, flush out the radiator put in water and 2 bottles of water wetter. All these things got me down from 8* KR to ZERO KR in 120* AZ summer temps.
I'm not big on stall knowledge, but 3K is the minimum stall you should look into. And 3.73s would be a great step up from your 2.73s. You should easily drop .5 in the 1/4 just by adding gears.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,097
From: smithtown, NY
honestly.. do headers, then gears,then a stall. and have it tuned. im not sure if this is out of your budget but of you do those mods he wont be able to touch you.
if your on a tighter budget.. id say go with a tune and stickier tires if traction is a problem. also dont rule out weight reduction its free afterall, take out smog, ac, front sway bar... that will see an easy 75lbs off the front end and itll make a nice difference.
if your on a tighter budget.. id say go with a tune and stickier tires if traction is a problem. also dont rule out weight reduction its free afterall, take out smog, ac, front sway bar... that will see an easy 75lbs off the front end and itll make a nice difference.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 669
From: San Jose, CA
At a minimum...3.73s. When I switch from 2.73s to 3.73s...felt an instant "umph" from a roll that wasn't there before. I did upgrade the converter just a tad...2200 or so.
Then the rest is good stuff..higher stall, headers, etc.
Then the rest is good stuff..higher stall, headers, etc.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 1998
Posts: 3,144
From: Jackstandican
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RUENUF
Cars For Sale
6
Mar 13, 2016 03:37 PM
PFYC
Supporting Vendor Group Purchases and Sales
0
Aug 5, 2015 08:35 AM