Anyone know of anybody with LT1 block making 400+ on motor. I am looking to build a 396 and am just researching. I am going to use LT1 or LT4 heads and LT4 intake, and eagle rods and crank, srp pistons. I am wanting and have read of (magazine myths) 550hp b4 200 shot of dope. Anyone with any ideas or expierences would be appreciatted! BTW I want this to the rear wheels not just to flywheel!

 

Depends on how much money you want to spend, its not that hard to get 550+ rwhp.

 

Mine makes a little more than 550. How much are you willing to spend to do that NA? I'll give you a hint... aint cheap.

-Mindgame

 

i go to S.A.M. in Houston so labor is done by me and cost is not an issue. I can get parts cheaper than most people.

 

That's great.

Are you hung up on building this engine on the LT1 block? Cause there's an easy way and there's a harder way.

The easy way to make the power is to build a big 1st gen small block with really good 23º heads. Just keep in mind that whatever you can do with 23º heads, you can do with a 14/15/18º head and less camshaft. So, the race heads make everything that much more streetable. If I were building my engine again, I'd have went with a 427ci build and my heads (15º GM). If I didn't have these heads already, I'd have went with an 18º. All said and done, the 427 can make ~650hp at 6500rpm. That's stout and very streetable.

To do it with a 383 or 396, you're going to either need to convert a set of race heads (like I did) or build a really nasty 23º head engine. Gonna need to turn all the way to 7k rpm and that takes a very healthy camshaft. The race heads will go to the same rpm on quite a bit less cam, which equates to better everyday drivability. If you opt for a race head, expect to spend ~$3 grand and up just for the heads and hardware. The least expensive alternative is going to be the Brodix 18X, which uses some 23º valvetrain. So you're going to need some advice from the guys there at SAM who are familiar with this type of stuff.
Then you're gonna need an intake. Your choices are largely effected by how much room you have under the hood. If you want to keep a near-stock hood height then you'd better look into a custom build similar to the LT1 intake, just with a bit more runner and plenum volume. Then you use a monoblade TB up front. Or you can use a cast carb intake and TB, but you're gonna need more hood clearance to make it fit.

Lots of options. Some are more expensive than others. The big sbc being the least expensive route.

-Mindgame

 

thanx, I was thinking about switching to a cast iron LS1 block. I just needing all the help I can get, as far as your idea how is driveability affected and I also want to keep it streetable. I am going to keep the 6 speed for a while, and this car again is a true daily driver. I don't care about sound as far as it being to loud that is no concern just want to be able to drive everywhere.

 

S.A.M (School of Automotive Machinists) www.samracing.com

 

I will be using eagle crank and rods, ported lt1 or lt4 heads(yes I know LT4's are better), and an lt4 intake. so any other takes on this ingenius idea i have.

 

I'd take a look at golen engine service at their long block. Either that or talk to Nu-Tek Motorsports. From what I've seen, the people who are making those numbers are doing it with the AFR 210 heads but some people seem to have good results with porting out the LT4 heads and intake.

 

The parts cost is the real kicker when building a gen3 engine. Follow this link http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ght=C5-R+block

and maybe we can get into more specifics.

-Mindgame