Some people told me if I had A4 trans, there would not be shaking/bucking problem. I don't know its true or not, but I just swapped from A4 to M6.

Ion did my tune, and he did thousands of car's tune with big cams. And Its not a little surge. Maybe I should take a video while driving slowly and you will get better idea.

Its 11:1 , yes stock and correct PCV.

Oh thats make sense! Because I believe something is wrong mechanically. I ordered Spec Stage 3+ (stronger than Stage 3). You know if you change the Flywheel, you should balance them together. But if the reason of shaking/bucking is Spec, man I will cancel my order!!

Going with M6 should be fan to drive

 

I had 2 stage 2's from Spec, and aStage 3, and all clutches failed within 1000miles of installation, and on the stage 3 the springs broke. I always had problems with them disengaging. They all disengaged down low no mater what I did. new hydraulic kit, adjustable master and all, I then tried a Mcleod (non Street twin), but I was making to much power for it, and then finally I went with the Ram Power Grip HD, so far the clutch disk has outlasted the pressure plate, and it bites strong 30K later. I don't remember there being any chatter... the car bites down hard though if your not careful. good luck though.

 

Can I use the Ram Power Grip HD with my Spec Aluminum Flywheel??

For example I can't use the MC Leod ST with the Spec Alum. Flywheel.

 

you can use it with the spec flywheel. I used it with a Fidanza flywheel, and now I'm now using it with the stock flywheel. It's designed like a standard clutch.

 

Thats great, now I should make a call thank you.

Spec Stg 3+ can be better, but I don't want to test the Spec Series.

 

There's a few threads on here about spec.. I'm sure I worte a bunch of them myself, but I gave up on spec, when I was going close to 90 and had the springs go out on me in the middle of a race, and the thing was I was making no way near the power I am now.

 

I just ordered this from thunder: Thats you got right?

35-98516HD Ram Clutches Powergrip HD Clutch Set (includes disk, pressure plate, throw-out bearing), 1993-1997 LT1 F-body

 

4.10's and get her on the dyno tuning it - and you'll be fine -

my 230/236 112 was hell to drive at first. then got ion's tune and it solve a majority of the surging, but still would be real bad under 2k- got to the point of me avoiding parking lots or traffic. then i blew my rearend and threw set of 4.10's in there, and couldnt believe how much that helped eliminate the problem.

on dyno had bit more tuning done to tweak it, and you can barely tell shes got a cam in her.

 

Going 4.10 from 3.42 will reduce my top speed thats okay. What is your top speed with 4.10 do you know?

 

unless your planning on WOT on highway runs i wouldnt worry about it-

me shifting at 6.5k ive hit about 145 in 5th

to give better idea- heres a crappy vid my friend shot-
http://media.putfile.com/revving-to-6500-whine

started in 1st- end of 3rd im a little over 105

 

Great acceleration!

I didn't get something. The end of 3rd is 105, but the end of 5th is 145?
Where is 4th ?

 

i wanna say its around 130- ill videotape her from a dig today, and use my DV camera to be able to clearly see the gauges. but .... i believe

1st = 50ish
2nd = 70ish
3rd = 105ish
4th = 130ish
5th = 145-150ish

i could be way off with the times over 100 - since putting the gears in ive only taken her over 100 a couple times, and only went wide open once with a buddy. thats how i know she does 145ish in 5th but wasnt really paying attention to the speedo. Shiftlight was letting me know

 

what is your clutch?

 

ha... ummm. ...

stock

but trust me it aint lasting to long. was in the city for a while with the car, and spent a while in boston, 10 min in traffic and clutch would start slipping and chattering real bad.

right now im in middle of nowhere, so it aint bad to deal with, but it needs to be replaced.