Ok, it's come to a point where I need to start mapping out a new motor. I'm just sick of dealing with my 355 at this point and am currently in the process of pulling it for a look and then probably a part-out.

I've got the basic motor I'm planning down. Golen 396, Trick Flow Heads, LT1 intake (to start thing off, probable single plane conversion later).

What I can't make up my mind on is if I want to go Hydraulic or Solid Roller. I'm not looking to be a run of the mill 400/400 RWHP/TQ 396. I'm looking to be solidly over that. I know it can be done with a hydraulic, but I'm wondering if a solid would just be a better option for me. Essentially I'd like to see this motor make in the immediate area of 600 FWHP (yes, it will be thrashed on an engine dyno prior to installation).

The car is going to be a moderately street driven (2-3 times a week) and will frequent the track (4-5 time a month at least). I know with the solid I will be looking at more maintenance, but just can't decide if I'm going to want to drive it on the street. You guys with solid rollers, how's driveability on the street, and how big did you go?? I'm trying to figure out if I'm going to be able to run around at 2K RPM in town (knowing that this is highly based on cam profile in itself, but seeking generalizations here) and not get spanked by some ricer because I'm not turning 4K+ RPM's at the time.

Please, no lectures about suspension or driveline, as I've already planned out for that. I just need some experiences and advice as to which way to go.

Thanks guys!

 

The positives on the solid roller include a little more "area under the curve" for a given duration, because of the steeper ramps, and the ability to rev over 6,800RPM reliably. The down side is noise, perodic adjstments and high spring pressures that tax the valve train.

My solid roller is fairly mild.... 230/242 114LSA 0.590/0.590. Its very streetable. Other than a light, really nice "clatter" of the valve train, you wouldn't know its there (really sorry the server that had a couple of my dyno pulls on it got trashed, or you could listen). I don't run a knock sensor, because it just won't work with the noise. People have tried filter circuits but its sort of a crap shoot.

The car was street driven for several years, the first year as my daily driver, and there are no apparent problems with the solid roller lifters. Appears if you get the right lifter and set up the oiling properly, wear in a daily driver isn't as big an issue as its made out to be. I put quite a few miles on it the first year, and it didn't need a valve adjustment, even though we checked it a couple times. Its at the point where its a once a season thing.

Unless you are looking to go beyond 6,800-7,000rpm though, it would make sense to stick with the hydraulic, IMHO.

 

Injuneer, that's EXACTLY the kind of information I was looking for. So it's actually doable and livable with the right lifter/pump setup for oiling, and nothing so crazy as it won't drive down low.

I'm moving to a F.A.S.T. XFI system with the new motor for ease of tuning and overall reliability over the stock 93 computer so I figure I might as well shoot to be revving over the 7200 stock computer limit.

My reasoning for even considering the hydraulic roller in the first place is the terrible luck I've been having with lifters, Comp R's in general. Just sick of dealing with them. Seems to me that periodic checking and resetting of the valve lash with a feeler gauge is a lot better than the crapshoot I've been through of just trying to get the hydraulics to set right without bleeding down on me.

Thanks a ton!

 

why such a small solid when you could have got a hyd to the same spec's

 

Solid rollers beat up the seat and valve faces pretty bad even after only a year of use.

 

well quick ramps with opening and slamming shut will do that not much cushion lol

 

I spray past 7,000rpm.

 

Personally I'm leaning towards the solid simply beause of the extra power that can be made over a similar hydraulic. I don't mind the extra maintenance, but I definitely don't want to toss in a hydraulic and wish I had gone the other way.

 

My "rule of thumb" is that somewhere in the 6,500-7,000rpm range is where you should start thinking solid roller. For the duration needed below this, the newer HR grinds have nearly the same "area under the curve" as the "street" SR lobes. Race SR lobes are even more aggressive but with that aggressiveness comes durability issues. Obviously, any race car should use solid lifters.

Rich

 

It seems to me, that a solid really is only worth it if you plan on spinning above or at least to 7000 RPM's, otherwise a hydraulic will serve just fine. Though I was wondering, because I have heard it offers more power under the curve, a better power band, and thats why I was intrigued. I intended only to spin to 6800 RPM or so, but also wanted a wide power band, so that down-low wouldnt be dead.

 

One of our road race package motors, is a long rod 355 with a custom crane solid roller, it makes the flattest torque curve that I have ever seen, and peaks at over 500...solid rollers will make some serious power, and if you are willing to make lash adjustments and potentially rebuild the heads and replace springs and valves with some frequency, then by all means that is the way to go. My road race mustang is built around a comp solid roller and I love it....the common denominator here is that SR is generally a race car thing.

 

Generally. But I'm going to make the assumption that one can be designed to give the power that is being seeked along with providing somewhat suitable manners for street driving correct??

 

Yes you can have one work for a street car without much issue.

Bret

 

Suitable manners for street driving is not the issue, that never was a problem. It's the accelerated wear on valvetrain parts that keeps solid rollers from being so popular in street cars. If you decide to go for it, don't drop into that grey area between hydraulic and solid, go full out make some serious power.

 

I'd like to go full out, but at the time I want to be able to drive the car on the street, and I mean at less than 3000+ RPM's too. I've been using 95Bird's car as a small basis to work off of, and given the size of his cam and power he's making, I think I should be able to go similar and live on the street from the way I've seen him talk about it. I don't need an absolutely docile car or anything, cam surge is expected as well is terrible fuel economy. But I want to be able to happily drive it around without worrying about being "in" my powerband if you get the drift. As long as I can keep it from being a turd off the line, I'll be happy.