Yes.

 

thanks. I guess i'll go ahead and install the cover

 

cover first, then oil pan is right. don't forget the rtv in the corners as per fel-pro directions.

 

If you do plan on using the same torn gasket, make sure to get sealant between the to ends of the gasket, top and bottom. After you get the pan bolted up let it sit for at least a day to cure before putting oil in or starting.

 

Oh im not going to reuse the torn gasket. Im going to replace the torn gasket. I had heard of a method of sliding the new gasket up along the side of the oil pan and then flipping it over.. but how low does the pan have to be to do that. I only have about 1" max between my block and the oil pan.

Im afraid of not lifting the engine up properly to clear the pan. I dont have any eyelets i can connect a hoist to and my jack probably wont be able to help me lift the car any mroe because the nose of the car is already on jack stands.

 

Pull out the motor mount bolts and put a block of wood under the accessory bracket or the bellhousing if you have an M6. Then jack it up as high is it will go. You need as much room as you can get. You will see when you get the pan low enough. The crank windage tray makes this very tough.

 

Has anyone used a hoist to do this? I would be much more comfortable with messing around with the through bolts if its being held up my a shop crane and not a jack.. Plus my jack is pretty much tapped out as the front of my car is up pretty high on jackstands.