I only speak the truth about these types of things. I was debating on doing the same with mine but i already had a motor with a lil cam that i just converted over from 94 to 96 for my car. The motor i took out had 170k on the clock and took me 13.007@107 with just bolt-ons. the only reason i changed it was cuz the cap and rotor was shot.

 

Yea my fear is that if it spins a brearing it'll take my investment in the cam with it! For me money doesnt come easy... so i'd hate to grind up a cam on an old block. It did run okay.. before the ignition coil went out... Plus the plugs were horrid!

 

I'm sure it will be fine.
Plugs wires and coil make huge diffrences. Later on in the week i'll take out the cam from my old motor and take pix of the bearings to see what they look like. Never had any problems with the motor i had just the cap and rotor.

 

Thanks for offering to take the pics. Im hoping the old beast holds together. If it does with my cam and mods.. it should really wake up the engine. Too bad the engine upgrade is just the half of it.. i still have suspension!

 

I'm still running pretty much stock suspention. I have changed the Control arms to the lakewood ones and i put V6 Springs in the rear for racing purpouses.

 

Yea i dont plan to do a full suspension setup. I'd like to do the LS1 brake upgrade, torque arm, and LCA'S.

Maybe bushings as they require it.

 

Alright.. almost there.. Im trying to remove the engine bracket that olds the AC and power steering pump to the engine and heads. Is there a way to remove the entire bracket without having to remove each individual item attached to it ?

 

Why are you doing this (not for the timing cover, I hope)? Some bolts are behind those things.

 

My cam swap also includes a fresh set of ported stock castings.

 

You don't need to remove the entire bracket. I believe there are two bolts that bolt into the head. One is behind the power steering pump and I believe the other one is somewhat visible. I think they are 9/16. If you haven't already you will need to take the bolts out of the power steering pump. After setting it aside you can then access the bolt behind the pump. Because of the cramped space I use an offset box end wrench. I am not sure there is enough room for a socket.

 

Thanks. I did just that! Now im trying to get the last two bolts off of the exhaust header so i can remove the heads.. then its back to the oil pan...

 

uh oh... Okay guys i manged to get oil pan bolts loose and lowered a bit. What am i supposed to do now? When i try and remove the timing cover the rubber piece of the oil pan gasket seems to be coming with the timing cover. Do i have to pry the cover free from the rubber gasket first?

I think the oil pan is as low as it can be with out lifting up the motor...

 

THe oil pan gasket is one huge ring. To get it off the timing cover try usin a small screwdriver, the front of the gasket is shaped like a U. You have to gently pry it away from the timing cover. Use a flashlight youll see..

 

Well.. the gasket was barely hanging on by a thread and i have a nice oil leak around the pan so ... long story short.. it ripped.. i cursed and i'll just plan on doing the gasket after i get the heads and cam installed.

 

I've got the new cam in and now im getting ready to install the cam sproket and timing chain, but first I wanted to confirm that when installing the timing chain cover the cover goes on first and then the oil pan gasket mates up to it right?

I cant decide whether i should work on lifting the engine and replacing the oil pan gasket, or putting the timing cover back on. Please advise..