How will this cam spec work
Re: How will this cam spec work
We already know those facts, problem is the "new 383 camshaft" is crap, poop, junk compared to the one you already have. This build is going to be LAME, especially if you use the "new" camshaft, and that's assuming it's even an LT1 camshaft. The lobes are far below Comp Cam magnum lobes speed and those are pretty slow. The LE camshaft is going to have more aggressive lobes and perform better than the Erson one.
I see you are from Romania, perhaps some of my language isn't translating correctly. If that is the case please say so, and we will do our best to help.
First: What do you want? a 500 horsepower LT1? 450 horsepower LT1? Are you just cruising Europe or drag racing? Please give us the specifications of the Erson kit. If you want this to be successful you need to give us a bunch of information to help pick what things are good verus bad. Otherwise it's going to be SLOWER than it was before.
-Dustin-
I see you are from Romania, perhaps some of my language isn't translating correctly. If that is the case please say so, and we will do our best to help.
First: What do you want? a 500 horsepower LT1? 450 horsepower LT1? Are you just cruising Europe or drag racing? Please give us the specifications of the Erson kit. If you want this to be successful you need to give us a bunch of information to help pick what things are good verus bad. Otherwise it's going to be SLOWER than it was before.
-Dustin-
Re: How will this cam spec work
I've no language problems, fortunately.
The kit I got from strokerkits.com is a SCAT 383 kit, forged ICON pistons, SCAT I-rods with 7/16 ARP bolts, SCAT cast crank, 10.4 compression and .030" block.
Most of everything else is in the sig. Got 255lph fp too. Upgraded cluth to RAM Powergrip kit.
I want it to be as fast as it can without making it uncomfortable to drive slow in the city, cruise, etc. As it was before it was a bit too nasty for my taste (unstable at 1500rpm, too edgy).
The kit I got from strokerkits.com is a SCAT 383 kit, forged ICON pistons, SCAT I-rods with 7/16 ARP bolts, SCAT cast crank, 10.4 compression and .030" block.
Most of everything else is in the sig. Got 255lph fp too. Upgraded cluth to RAM Powergrip kit.
I want it to be as fast as it can without making it uncomfortable to drive slow in the city, cruise, etc. As it was before it was a bit too nasty for my taste (unstable at 1500rpm, too edgy).
Re: How will this cam spec work
Now we are getting somewhere! So I'm assuming the pistons are -5cc two valve relief? Forged I beams are good, .030 is standard, cast crank is OK, as long as the machine work and clearances are correct you should be ok.
But, why are you aiming for LESS static compression than factory?! Making decent power all motor likes compression. Is the fuel you have over there only low octane only or something? Otherwise I'd aim for at least 11:1 or 11.5:1. My 383 is 12.5ish:1 and runs pump gas. You should be able to adjust that with the head gasket. However I don't know what size combustion chambers you have. I'd assume something in the 55cc range.
If that LE camshaft was a little rough for you in a 350, then running it in a 383 should be just fine. That Erson camshaft has cam lobes barely more aggressive than a factory LT1 camshaft and it will make LESS power than the LE camshaft. A Hotcam would be a better choice and more aggressive. To be honest if it were my build I'd run a thin head gasket 355 using a stock worked crank, stock reworked rods, and factory pistons. Then use the extra cash for something else.
-Dustin-
But, why are you aiming for LESS static compression than factory?! Making decent power all motor likes compression. Is the fuel you have over there only low octane only or something? Otherwise I'd aim for at least 11:1 or 11.5:1. My 383 is 12.5ish:1 and runs pump gas. You should be able to adjust that with the head gasket. However I don't know what size combustion chambers you have. I'd assume something in the 55cc range.
If that LE camshaft was a little rough for you in a 350, then running it in a 383 should be just fine. That Erson camshaft has cam lobes barely more aggressive than a factory LT1 camshaft and it will make LESS power than the LE camshaft. A Hotcam would be a better choice and more aggressive. To be honest if it were my build I'd run a thin head gasket 355 using a stock worked crank, stock reworked rods, and factory pistons. Then use the extra cash for something else.
-Dustin-
Re: How will this cam spec work
I chose stock compression because I want to be able to run with the cheapest gas available, which is 95 octane european standard. Pretty expensive here 
Pistons have 2 planes, the deeper flat plane in the middle has 4 valve notches.
I already have all of the parts and kits mentioned payed for and delivered (700$ total shipping them here). I can not return anything as it would cost too much. So I have to work with what I have! If you guys aggree the cam sux though I will do something about that...

Pistons have 2 planes, the deeper flat plane in the middle has 4 valve notches.
I already have all of the parts and kits mentioned payed for and delivered (700$ total shipping them here). I can not return anything as it would cost too much. So I have to work with what I have! If you guys aggree the cam sux though I will do something about that...
Re: How will this cam spec work
Two planes? Almost sounds like it has a dish. Can you post pictures?
Camshaft wise just keep the Lloyd Elliott cam in there and get rid of that awful Erson one. I still can't believe that cam is so bad.
-Dustin-
Camshaft wise just keep the Lloyd Elliott cam in there and get rid of that awful Erson one. I still can't believe that cam is so bad.
-Dustin-
Re: How will this cam spec work
Re: How will this cam spec work
Re: How will this cam spec work
With a 19.6cc dish, piston .010 in the hole, 56cc head chamber you looking at around 10.1 depending on the gasket. Zero decking and/or running a thinner gasket would help get you closer to stock static compression.
Let other readers know that you need to do the research on parts and how they will effect your build BEFORE you buy them.
-Dustin-
Re: How will this cam spec work
Pistons are actually +.030". And the kit is supposed to come out at stock compression, about 10.4. The pistons came as a kit from SCAT directly. Even if the shop I ordered it from was not so pro, I hope at least SCAT knows what they are selling 
Stroker kit part number is SCAT 1-91255BIE-X. Sais 10.4 with 58cc, whatever that is
I would be very disappointed if all this comes out a dud. Hope the kit is ok at least, and I am left to figure if my current LE cam is good enough or it's actually worth it getting a good custom cam...

Stroker kit part number is SCAT 1-91255BIE-X. Sais 10.4 with 58cc, whatever that is

I would be very disappointed if all this comes out a dud. Hope the kit is ok at least, and I am left to figure if my current LE cam is good enough or it's actually worth it getting a good custom cam...
Re: How will this cam spec work
I would rather run the cam in your sig then the new one.
The 222/226 is smaller then what I daily drove in a stock cube 350 - will be very small for a 383.
It will make tons of tq though.
The 222/226 is smaller then what I daily drove in a stock cube 350 - will be very small for a 383.
It will make tons of tq though.
Re: How will this cam spec work
Is it worth spending money for another new cam or is the one in the sig going to satisfy my needs (drivability > performance)?
What is the ballpark estimation power range I will reach with the cam in the sig and everything else I've listed here
And what with the "new" one?
P.S. Thanks for all the input, hope it comes out ok
What is the ballpark estimation power range I will reach with the cam in the sig and everything else I've listed here
And what with the "new" one?P.S. Thanks for all the input, hope it comes out ok
Re: How will this cam spec work
Just too reiterate anyone could tell you its going too make x amount of power and x amount of torque. Well thought out combinations make big power. I made the mistake of rebuilding my car with a slew of parts trying too be different and as far as dyno results go I was not impressed. Tuning, quality if build,parts,heads and cam all play a factor. My car ran 10.8 with a 150 shot when it should've been running low 11's on motor. My combo was not thought out the greatest and I regret it now in the long haul.I made 370rwhp@5900 and 502rwtq on a mustang dyno on the spray.all im saying is don't sell yourself short and don't let dyno numbers get ya down because in all honesty the numbers are just for bragging rights. The track is your best judge of what your car is capable of and imvsurebitll still chew up most mustangs when your done. Good luck. Sorry bout the typo but my phone sucks for posting lol
Re: How will this cam spec work
I've sent a mail to LE to ask about the CC in my heads. I will be installing Fel-Pro 1074 head gaskets. Block is stock size. The pistons are dish 19.6cc.
Should I ask to "mill" (is that the term?) the block to increase compression a little? From my calculations with a normal 54cc head I get about 10.6 compression, all things being stock.
Is there anything else you guys could recommend to get the best of what I have here? I've talked to LE about the cam and he sais I should keep his too, the other is way too small for 383.
dennis5374: Since I'm not crazy about power or looking to make a race car, I don't need crazy numbers, I just want the car to drive good, strong. If I get it to feel right and kill the ricers I'm satisfied! I don't want to get maximum power from it, but I don't want to waste usable decent power either!
Felix.
Should I ask to "mill" (is that the term?) the block to increase compression a little? From my calculations with a normal 54cc head I get about 10.6 compression, all things being stock.
Is there anything else you guys could recommend to get the best of what I have here? I've talked to LE about the cam and he sais I should keep his too, the other is way too small for 383.
dennis5374: Since I'm not crazy about power or looking to make a race car, I don't need crazy numbers, I just want the car to drive good, strong. If I get it to feel right and kill the ricers I'm satisfied! I don't want to get maximum power from it, but I don't want to waste usable decent power either!
Felix.


