How will this cam spec work On a 383 stroker with LE2 heads, 30lbs injectors, ported intake, TB, LT headers, 1.6RR, 255lph fp, etc?

222/226 .510/.510 112+4 (@1.5 rocker ratio)

(what does +4 mean?)

 

Will it work, sure. Could you make far more power with a different grind? Yes.

Personally that would not be my first choice for a camshaft for a stroker motor. That's a cam more suited to a stock-headed, stock displacement car.

The cam in my motor has excellent street manners, at idle and cruise, and is 237/242, .604"/.598" on a 108 LS, and makes over 550fwhp. I wouldn't hesitate to drive it every day either.

 

It's what they came up with for my car, it's custom made. I gave info about all the mods, etc. I said I wanted it made for street/strip with emphasis on torque rather than high rpm.

Sounds weird to me too but I figured I'd give it a try. It was made by Erson Cams.

 

Sounds like a nitrous grind. Advanced 4*. I would agree that your leaving alot too be desired with that grind. If your running Lloyd's heads call him and tell him what your goals are. He'll definitely point ya in the right direction

 

Lol I missed the 1.5 ratio. Its a decent lift cam but not alot of duration. From what I understand cam advance is very useful in fi applications,especially nitrous.

 

Thing is I got this cam as a kit along with stroker kit, clutch, etc, and I trusted it would be what I needed. Did pay for it and it's delivered too. Only got the specs now. I did mention I might install Nitrous SOMETIME, under 100hp shot!

Is it really clearly that crappy that it would mandate starting a mess to return it and get something else?

This is the whole specs I got for it:

GROSS VALVE LIFT INT. 0.510
GROSS VALVE LIFT EXH. 0.510

INTAKE OPEN 37
INTAKE CLOSE 73
EXHAUST OPEN 83
EXHAUST CLOSE 31

ROCKER RATIO 1.50
ROCKER RATIO 1.50

CAM LIFT INTAKE .340
CAM LIFT EXHAUST .340
OVERLAP@ LASH 68

LOBE SEPARATION 112
INTAKE PHASE 108
EXHAUST PHASE 116

ADV. OR RET. DEG. 4
INTAKE "LASH" DUR. 290
EXHAUST "LASH" DUR. 294

INTAKE DUR @ .050" 222
EXHAUST DUR @ .050" 226

TDC 45
INTAKE OPEN @ .050 3
INTAKE CLOSE @ .050 39
EXHAUST OPEN @ .050 49
EXHAUST CLOSE @ .050 -3
OVERLAP @ .050 0
TIMING POINT INT. 99
TIMING POINT EXH. -19
OR 341
HOT LASH INTAKE 0.000
HOT LASH EXHAUST 0.000

NET VALVE LIFT INTAKE 0.510
NET VALVE LIFT EXHAUST 0.510

 

IMHO, you have LE2 heads, why not get a cam spec'd out by Lloyd?

 

Honestly I figured I'd just get everything from the shop that set me up with the stroker kit. Didn't even think to contact Lloyd about this... My bad

 

FYI Most "Shops" typically know very little about getting the most from a setup. Take stuff that needs machined and/or assembled to a shop and have that type work done. But leave head porting/cam selection/engine quench, compression, etc to people who know LT1's and/or what they are doing.

A 222/226 .544/.544 112LSA camshaft is something I would run in a stock 350/355 daily driver car. But the lobes on that camshaft are either insanely lazy or not hydraulic roller. It makes me wonder how specific this stroker kit actually is...is the camshaft even LT1 specific? Does it have a stepped nose?

I see the indicators for a huge failed attempted at a stroker motor in the making. You need to get a "grown up" of the LT1 world to figure out how much of the sh it sandwich you have bitten off.

-Dustin-

 

I run a 576/571 230/236 in my 355 with a 113lsa. I spray s 150 shot all the time. Figure out the lift at 1.6 ratio and you'll have a better idea what your working with. Duration makes power. That being said I have le2's now and im gonna have Lloyd spec a custom grind for me. Custom is definitely the way top gi and it'll save you alot of disappointment. I've got a good size hydraulic roller and am still not satisfied and my car runs low 11's all day with the occasional high ten with a decent launch.

 

With only a 4-deg split on the exhaust (222/226), that's not a nitrous cam.

 

It's definitely not a nitrous cam as mentioned. Should make a nice driver though.

As to your question, +4 means they have ground 4 degrees of advance into the cam. Most manufacturers do this especially for cams they intend to work with computer controlled engines.

 

It was custom made for strokerkits.com by Erson Cams. I filled a form for it, they came up with that. I didn't ask for high performance, I want more drivability in a street/strip setup. As it was before (see sig) it was too rough for me. They might have taken that as refference!

 

So that would mean my cam is a weak Nos cam as well. 230/236. I read an article on here about cams and it said something about degree.ing a cam for f/I Nos applications. Is this different then this cam that's 4* advanced? Or same concept but alot more too it?

 

To be honest the cam in your sig should be rather tame in a 383. The smaller custom grind should be almost stockish in a 383.

Degreeing a cam is simply making sure the valve events are taking place relative to the crankshaft position. When you advance or retard a cam you're changing when the valves actuate relative to the position of the crankshaft. Generally advancing a cam will give better low end power while retarding it will improve top end. Most cam manufacturers add the 4 degree advance to their grinds by default for cams meant for street driving.

If you check your cam card you'll see it has 4 degrees advance ground into it by Comp unless you special ordered it.

As for whether or not it's a good nitrous cam you really need to look at the valve events to tell for sure. A good rule of thumb is 10 degrees more exhaust than intake duration but it's not set in stone (and someone is going "That's not right" while reading this). My philosophy is if it runs good NA it will run good with n2o.