Only need to line HONE that setup...

But yeah a stock crank that is magnafluxed and polished usually will take a ton of abuse IF you aren't detonating like a champ AND it's balanced correctly.

Bret

 

Thinking a 4 bolt conversion...do not want to give people bad advice...

 

Understandable but a 2 bolt studded block is stronger than a stock cast crank..... kinda pointless until you get into the area were you need a forged crank.

Bret

 

Ok, how about an aftermarket cast crank (eagle) I bought a 383 stroker motor that was buils with cast eagle crank...unsure of the rods and KB hyper pistons....

I dropped a valve and have the heads off...I was gonna replace the internals with forged components. My goal is 400+ RWHP N/A and 600+ RWHP n2o (wet kit/hopefully direct port)

Would I be better of spending the money on rods and pistons and sticking with the crank I have?

 

Yes... a set of Eagle or Scat I beam rods should be enough but you might have them already.

bret

 

A few extensively lightened cars have raceweights with driver as light as 4000lbs. Most cars are over that without driver these are porky cars, but the full frame 8.5" 10bolt and such make them take abuse very well, plus we have room to work on our drivetrains and a fuel pump is at most an hour job .


As with anything the stock crank has limits but few here are going to push them.

 

I'll start another thread instead of whoring this one

 

I run a cast steel eagle crank to around 6800 rpm pretty regularly. I have over 50 1/4 mile passes on in in just the last 2 years.

 

Also a supercharged car puts a lot more stress on the crank than say an all motor or juiced motor

 

Actually a juiced motor hurts the crank more, a blower motor just hurts the crank snout more.... either way detonations hurts them more than anything.

Bret

 

I'm thinking about doing a turbo next year. I have a nice set of forged pistons. I was thinking of going with some h beam rods. how much power could I make at or below 6500rpms before the properly prepped stock crank would be the weak link?
Thanks,
Kory

 

i always thought that the snout getting pulled a lot harder at a strong angle would throw off the geometry, thus that being more hazardous...but i guess both can do damage

 

A large shot of nitrous creates HUGE cylinder pressures. The blower just tries to rip the end off the crank, nitrous tries to twist the damn thing in half each time a spark plug fires.

 

ah...so i guess pulling a band-aid off your forearm is better than chopping it off at the elbow