LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

How to re-adjust rockers after initial

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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 10:57 PM
  #1  
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How to re-adjust rockers after initial

So I installed new springs the whole deal when the heads were off the car. Then timed the valves accordingly. I think a couple in the back on the driver side may be looser (there is a tick). Now say I want to adjust those valves or perhaps just all of them on that side of the motor.

Now since I have already adjusted the lash once, won't the lifter already be bleed down a little even at TDC so when I unbolt the rocker, the lifter will still be bleed down and thus making the new adjustment the same as the old? What I am saying is, even at TDC isnt the lifter going to be bleed a little?

Does it makes sense to take the rockers off...wait 15 minutes or so and then re-adjust so they can pop back up. Or does oil have to be flowing.

Or will they pop back up instantly after all pressure is released by unbolting the rocker?

Hope this makes sense.

Would it be better to adjust a noisy lifter w/ the engine running or could I do it w/ it off and just re-lash?
Old Jun 2, 2008 | 11:28 PM
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You don't have to do anything special. Just loosen them up and do the procedure again. No problem with bleeding or anything. Or adjust them with it running.
Old Jun 3, 2008 | 07:49 AM
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I'd say adjust them with the car running.
Old Jun 4, 2008 | 01:11 PM
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thats how we did mine when it was running heres the vid.
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=34264557
Old Jun 4, 2008 | 05:42 PM
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I've done them both ways and its fine either way. With them running, you can get minimum preload and maybe a little more power, and it's easy to do too, other than being more of a mess. But either way works. There's springs in the lifters, so they will still have some pressure on the pushrod but if it is bled down, you will have to have a more sensitive feel for it - don't go adjusting it too far down looking for the same resistance the others have and mess your valvetrain up like a lot of inexperienced guys do. Just back off the set screws and tighten the polylock by hand until you feel it get harder and that is where you start to preload it. If you got any where the stud threads are boogered up, that can make it harder to tell where you are, so keep that in mind. Don't forget to turn the polylock an additional 1/8 turn after tightening the set screw to really cinch them down.

Last edited by Kevin Blown 95 TA; Jun 4, 2008 at 05:45 PM.
Old Jun 5, 2008 | 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Kevin Blown 95 TA
I've done them both ways and its fine either way. With them running, you can get minimum preload and maybe a little more power, and it's easy to do too, other than being more of a mess. But either way works. There's springs in the lifters, so they will still have some pressure on the pushrod but if it is bled down, you will have to have a more sensitive feel for it - don't go adjusting it too far down looking for the same resistance the others have and mess your valvetrain up like a lot of inexperienced guys do. Just back off the set screws and tighten the polylock by hand until you feel it get harder and that is where you start to preload it. If you got any where the stud threads are boogered up, that can make it harder to tell where you are, so keep that in mind. Don't forget to turn the polylock an additional 1/8 turn after tightening the set screw to really cinch them down.
I've always wondered about that, are you suppose to turn the nut after tightening the polylocks? Some people never say to do this...
Old Jun 5, 2008 | 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Jazsun
I've always wondered about that, are you suppose to turn the nut after tightening the polylocks? Some people never say to do this...
I have never found it necessary. Some have broken the poly lock by doing this.
Old Jun 5, 2008 | 11:45 AM
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I have never used the method of trying to adjust the lifters on a running engine and do not see the need for it.

Rich
Old Jun 5, 2008 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by shoebox
I have never found it necessary. Some have broken the poly lock by doing this.
They tried to turn them too far. Some people don't have a feel for how tight is enough until they break things. Those are opposite of the ones whose rocker arms are always coming loose - and I've seen a lot of posts about that, not breaking poly locks.
Old Jun 5, 2008 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin Blown 95 TA
They tried to turn them too far. ...
Obviously.
Old Jun 5, 2008 | 09:07 PM
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Well I re-adjusted them w/ the motor off, and lashed the ones I thought were making noise some more...didn't help. So I'm about to just say **** it, it's not that loud of a tick I think I may just be too ****. I bought bandclamps for my collectors but that didnt help. All the headers bolts are nice and tight....
Old Mar 30, 2009 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 1993zlt1
thats how we did mine when it was running heres the vid.
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=34264557
Old Mar 30, 2009 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 1993zlt1
thats how we did mine when it was running heres the vid.
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=34264557
Old Mar 31, 2009 | 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 1993zlt1
thats how we did mine when it was running heres the vid.
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=34264557
Old Mar 31, 2009 | 01:10 AM
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Never touched mine after I built my engine. Have 10-12k miles on it now and no issues yet.



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