that while running vid looks like pure chaos, coolant is spewing everywhere, oil is spraying all over the exhaust lol

I've always been a fan of doing it while the car is off, never had a problem. I don't trust my ears enough personally to do the while-running-method

 

I always leave the radiator cap on when adjusting mine and use card board to keep oil off the exhaust. I also do one at a time.

 

Isn't this having the same effect as tightening the screw more? I suspect you're getting more leverage with the box end wrench on the nut than the allen wrench on the screw.
Would it be more accurate/consistent to use a 3/16" allen socket & tighten all the screws to a given torque? I read on some site a guy used 30 LBs. which seems a little excessive to me. I'm thinking of doing mine at 20 Lbs.
I'm doing mine tomorrow so any feedback on this method would be appreciated.
Thanks

 

Yes, it would increase the lash. Just hold the nut and cinch down the allen bolt. It's not rocket science. People go to all these extremes where none are really necessary.

 

You will get a ticking from a exhaust leak at the head and usually happens from the underside of the exhaust manifold or headers where it can't be seen. Many people have mistaken a exhaust leak for a loose rocker and chased their tail readjusting rockers

 

Interseting technique used in the video. The proper tool helps: http://www.google.com/products/catal...195&sa=title#p

 

I agree. I ALWAYS do it that way too, even on solid rollers running a stud girdle.

There have been a couple of recent posts of the poly locks lossening. In response to OPs problem members have recommended turning the lock about 1/16" after the set screw is tightened. As I've posted before, I don't know of any torque setting for that, it's just done by feel.

CompCams and I recommend loosening the poly lock and waiting a short period of time to allow the lifter preload to relax so the pushrod cup can return to the top.

Jake

 

I used the method listed on Shoebox's site to adjust mine. I didnt have any success adjusting them with it running. Engine off method is much easier I thought.

 

Dont overtighten the polylock. I used to torque the set screws to 35# and one day last year, a single polylock broke in falf. It caused no damage, just some clicking from a loose rocker. Luckily i had a spare in the toolbox.

Now I torque the set screws to 25#.

 

Interestingly, the preload or valve lash isn't effected at all in doing the additional tightening procedure.

Actually all that's being done is additional tightening of the OD threads of the set screw with the ID threads of the larger poly while, at the same time, applying a tad more pressure to the top of the stud. This is what prevents future loosening by locking all three together better.

How much to tighten is a "feel thing" (muscle memory) that engine builders develop over the years. I wish I had a torque spec to share, but I don't. Simplest to say, as soon as the wrench moves, that's enough.

Like so many other things, there are different ways to accomplish the same thing. It's just how I've done it on both street and race engines since Hector was a Pup.

Jake

 

Just to update this thread from the dead, I'll quote myself!


25,000+ miles on it now and have had NO problems with rocker coming loose.

 

Do all roller rockers make a light ticking, even when adjusted properly?
Mine sound like solid lifters, maybe a little quieter.
I noticed some play in the rollers on the tip of my NIB Scorpion rockers, which I think all R/R's have, maybe for heat expansion.
Thanks for any input.
Stew

 

I ajust mine with the car running. its the best way to make sure it is all perfect and there is no noise from a rocker. othere than that if its not running then just make sure your a tdc #1 and #6 and go over all of them again dont be lazy or you will ust have to do it again