How to "peen" a washer onto an end of a shaft????
How to "peen" a washer onto an end of a shaft????
This must be SIMPLE, but I cannot find any information ....see this post please, thanks:
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/for...2/#post6850069
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/for...2/#post6850069
Re: How to "peen" a washer onto an end of a shaft????
I'm having to guess exactly what you're talking about here, but...
It's just a simple machining operation similar to riveting. If you have a ball peen hammer (one with a round end) then you can slowly hammer the middle of the shaft and expand it to stake the washer in place. Sometimes it helps to have a slight hollow spot in the middle to make it easier to mushroom the shaft end. The shaft should extend past the washer so that it can be expanded there, and it should fit fairly close to the ID of the washer, otherwise it will be harder to get good results. If it's all worn out from being loose, it may be difficult to do it properly.
Another way to do it would be to drill a hole in the end of the shaft and use a punch to expand it to retain the washer.
One another method would be to heat the end of the shaft up until it's red hot and peen it when the metal is much softer, but like I said I don't really know what is appropriate for your parts.
It's just a simple machining operation similar to riveting. If you have a ball peen hammer (one with a round end) then you can slowly hammer the middle of the shaft and expand it to stake the washer in place. Sometimes it helps to have a slight hollow spot in the middle to make it easier to mushroom the shaft end. The shaft should extend past the washer so that it can be expanded there, and it should fit fairly close to the ID of the washer, otherwise it will be harder to get good results. If it's all worn out from being loose, it may be difficult to do it properly.
Another way to do it would be to drill a hole in the end of the shaft and use a punch to expand it to retain the washer.
One another method would be to heat the end of the shaft up until it's red hot and peen it when the metal is much softer, but like I said I don't really know what is appropriate for your parts.
Last edited by Kevin Blown 95 TA; Jan 1, 2012 at 06:32 PM.
If you hit the washer squarely in the hole with a ball been hammer it will reduce the size of the hole. That being said,perhaps the intent of the writer is to have you lock the washer from rotating by "dimpling" after it is seated by mushing it together in a few spots with a punch.
Re: How to "peen" a washer onto an end of a shaft????
Thanks for the input guys. It's down below the end of the shaft so I really can't do it like that, plus I can't alter the top middle of the shaft because threads are there for the bolt that holds the SC pulley on. I thought about heating things, really can't because the internal SC belt is there. Where the washer is to be peened onto the shaft is about an inch and a half down from the top and the shaft has a slightly expanded spot that the washer can be hammered onto (tricky though due to lack of space ...maybe a punch would be good)....that spot is the upper side of the cog sprocket that holds the belt ...so the washer acts as a belt guide/retainer (so long as it doesn't come loose). After looking closer I think I have to use a washer with less inner diameter due to wear on the sprocket that it installs on. Either that or just tack weld this one on (would be better piece of mind really) ...or ....use JB Weld or Permatex Liquid Metal. I kind of don't like adhesives for a 45,000 RPM application though.
Re: How to "peen" a washer onto an end of a shaft????
I took it to Home Depot and peened the washer with one of their hammers (lol didn't want to pay $20 for the cheapest one they had) ...made no difference, still too loose to seat. I carefully did a cold JB Weld on the top and bottom of the washer. With the JB underneath and filling in the gap on top where it's too loose, I have a feeling it will be ok. I'm letting it sit in the open air for a day or two so it can cure really good before reassembly. The stuff's suppossed to be good to 600*F and really strong, first time I've used it. Anyone think this is too risky?
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