Hey guys, I am starting to wonder if my block is going to handle what I'm getting ready to do... The motor is fully built blah blah blah, a huge turbo is going in, what are the LT1 blocks that have 4 bolt splayed billet caps, and all ARP fasteners capable of handling?

For those of you that want to know.
The crank is a 4340 Cola 3.75 stroke (383ci) with 6" Pro I beam rods from Speed O Motive, and 8.5:1 JE pistons, a custom grind hydrallic roller cam that I'm now thinking is way to small (225/233 529/550 on a 114* ls and 1.52 CC Hi-Tech SS rockers), and LT4 AFR 210s fully worked by AFR for around 223 total CCs. On top is a fully ported LT1 intake matched to an LT4 gasket and a BBK 58mm TB


Any input on the cam specs? I'm told by a couple well know ford guys to go way bigger and solid roller. (I'm not buying $525 lifters!!!) Motor has been built for a few years now, I just ran out of money and time back then, so the project never got finished... Now I'm changing the combo from a little ol P600B to a big nasty single turbo and throwing out all the unecessary weight and ammenities!

 

according to my mech(in my opinion the best mech) said no more than 400rwhp to be a safe daily driver

 

Madman, Baxter, Sikora have all pushed the LT1 block to over 1,100 flywheelHP. At least two of those were blower motors, which means they were probably over 1,250HP if you consider the power taken off the front of the crank by the blower.

Rich Krause has posted an interesting thread on "Advanced Tech" on this subject.

 

You must have used AFR's larger chambered heads to get 8.5:1 compression with a 6" rods. Anyhow, I don't know how well that cam will work out, seems like it would be a great supercharger cam. I think a single pattern cam would work out alot better for you. How big of a turbo are you planning to use?

Oh yeah, you might want to post this in the Forced Induction forum if you haven't already.

 

400whp... :-) very funny!

I want to make 1000 to the wheels, then I will be happy.

I will check out the adv. forum post your talking about, thanks.

On th cam, I had originally thought it was going to be a blower cam, and did lots of research along with Speed O Motive and American Cam Grinding, and we all agreed this would be great for what I had planned, well that being years ago, plans change! Now the car is going to be 90% track and 10% street, so I can definately go with a much bigger cam, which means I have to find out what the springs on the heads are good for. Either way I want to stick with a hydra. cam... less maintenance, and I can keep the lifters I have now VS buying way overpriced mechanical ones. (.300" taller mech. lifters are over $500!!!)

As for the turbo its gonna most likely be a modded T76, the T100 I saw today needed its own engine compartment! Although its supposed to be a really nice turbo on Mistakes... they are making over 800whp at only 10psi with a 302!!! And it spools fairly decent too.

The AFRs I believe were 76cc and the JE's were custom

Thanks

hey formula king, your right around the corner from me! Who works on your car?

 

if you wanna do 1000 to the wheels.. your engine will be hte least of your problems.. I know what the borg warner t56 can handle up to 600 hp and the 4l60e is like 400. I didn't look at your sig so I don't knwo what you hve but if you have the 10 bolt (hopefully not) you're screwed, gonna need a 12 bold or 9 in. also you will need suspension mods and a roll cage would be nice so you don't twist your frame.. once you get that kinda power, **** breaks easy

 

You think like me. I put this post up forever ago. Should be very helpful.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ht=1000+forged

 

I'm building a bullet proof powerglide! A 9" rearend is going in for sure, and I'll be tig welding a 10pt cage kit in too. I already have a Chromeoly K member on the way, and am thinking of the arms too. For the rear I have the panhard bar and lower control arms already. I think I am going to go with the BMR Extreme torque arm.

hmm, did I miss anything?

Still trying to decide on a Pro style trans brake, a full tree trans brake, or just a manual valve body. A tranny brake will let me get away with a much higher stall, but I havnt figured out what I will need yet. Like I said this is a 90% track 10% street car! :-) It should break the 8's with enough boost.

 

you might want to get a shorter rod or it might break a piston too...id go with 5.85 to get some more crown thickness on the piston!

 

they are pretty thick!
I had them custom made by JE, and they even said it shouldnt be a problem.
The pin is about 1/2 way into the oil ring, and the top ring is a good 1/4" from the crown. I think it will be fine.

If a Honda JE piston can handle at least 6.25 crankshaft HP (700hp/112ci) per CI, I'm pretty sure the one I have can handle 3 crankshaft hp per CI (1170hp assuming a 17% drivetrain loss /383ci)!

Like I have said before, all theories went out the window when I started building Hondas! And BTW there are 900hp 2.0L Hondas using the same JE pistons... yeah, 900hp out of only 4 little *** cylinders! (thats 31ci making 225HP per cylinder with stock cranks, and way smaller wrist pins, rods, bolts, etc.)

It all goes back to the tuning!

 

Actually, that's untrue. You could have 1000 horsepower on a stock 10bolt and drive for thousands of miles. As long as you're driving without nailing it at every stop light. The main reason things break is because of stress, if you keep the stress to a minimum, then you'll be fine. But in his case, I'm sure stress will be a very common experience.

 

I would add that the 10 bolt would theoretically last as long as the tires didn't have any traction. Once you get traction with 1k hp, it's anybody's guess as to the life span of that rearend.

He should be fine with the 6" rods. He is using aftermarket heads with larger chambers after all.

Good luck with the 76mm turbo, if you get yours together before I get mine, let me know how you like it.

Later