I am not sure we get tested for emmitions here in Indiana I have never had to get tested thkgod From the factory my car came with 275 hp and the ls1 comes with 310 or 315 I believe . Thats only 40hp I am not sure how much I am running now but I think I might be off like 20hp. I shouldnt have too much trouble getting that with a couple more mods. I hope tanks for all the help I have allready learned soo much from this site . I week ago I had this loud bump from under my shifter when it shifed I thought my trans was shot . I looked through the fourm and found out what was wrong and was an easy fix thanks again for all your help and great advice . Anthony

 

Headers are a great mod but are difficult to install. Thus if you are going to do them you should do it right the first time. I would do long tube headers if you aren't worried about emissions. They will make a little more power and will better compliment future mods. However, by they may not provide quite enough power to beat your friend’s LS1 car. The factory claimed HP of LS1 cars is generally considered as underrated. Many are making closer to 350 at the crank.

JeffA

 

av8er, I was thinkin about what you said , like how long tubes will compliment other mods ... Is it a huge difference ? I think headers will be my next mod. Could you guys give and estimate of how much a diffence it would make ? Like say you have a built 350 that is 350RWHP with shorties, and you switched to long tubes, how big of an improvement could you see ? I want a decent set of headers but i NEED to pass emissions, and there is only two ways...One being if i got a decent set of shorties, Two would be making sure i kept it under 5K a year so i would be exempt from emissions ...

Hehe inless anyone knows a way to unhook the Odometer and still have everything else function properly? I plan on keeping the car for a LONG time...And i wouldnt scam no one tellin them its low miles when its not...

 

if you have to pass emissions the best way to go if you car is a 94-95 is to go with a set of RKSPORT or AS&M headers they are midlength with 1 3/4" primaries, btw some shorties have 1 5/8 and some have 1 3/4 (i think the SLP) all long tubes for LT1's are 1 3/4. and it sucks the ls1 gets rated at 305 and the lt1 gets 275. but actually dynos stock:
LT1 M6: 265rwhp, LT1 A4: 250rwhp
LS1 M6: 300rwhp
yep it sucks were around 50rwhp right out of the box.
ps: use the signature to tell us about you car it will help us answer your questions

 

Yeah i'm going with the as&m midlengths because i have emissions. I'm going to convert it to 1 cat. It won't be smog legal but it will pass the emissions part. Plus i hear they are probably the best headers out there besides long tubes.

 

AS&M"s

 

Will the AS&M's bolt rite to my factory Y-Pipe , Headers are coming in a month or two , as soon as i get this thing all together and running rite, and I wanted to get AS&M's casue they seemed to be the best for passing emissions and still getting some good HP #'s ... Also , do they sound mean lol ?

 

No, but they will bolt to the one that come with them

The factory Y pipe would be a restriction.

yes they will sound mean as hell, errr i mean heck!

-brent

 

One thing to consider is if you will ever be lowered. I would love longtubes. But I am lowered. And since it is an autox car it will stay that way.

I wish now I would have gone with a set of the SLP mid length headers. Instead I went with Hooker shortubes. Painted even.

This winter I am going to cut the sorry *** collectors off the Hooker shortubes and weld on flowmaster 4 into 2 into 1 collectors almost making a true Tri-Y header out of them. After that I may add 2 "bullet cats" directly to the collectors and then 2 smitthys steel packed mufflers. Autox is ALL about low end torque. And the Tri-Y's and dual cats will/should get what I want.

Plus the Smitthys mufflers are kind of old school. My father and I used to put them on the older cars. Lead sled Mercs and flattie powered cars.