LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

how much did it cost you to rebuild your shortblock ?

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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 03:57 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by TheBlur
No a member on here bought them then decided not to use them. Hence why they are 54cc/hot cam springs.
thought le used all beehive springs..
Old Jul 18, 2010 | 03:59 PM
  #17  
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He used Lt4 by request of the guy selling me the heads. He wants 1000 with the LT4 springs, 1250 with the other springs. Figured it was a good deal as no core was required but maybe I should hold off on that deal and work with Llloyd Directly to avoid any mistakes.
Old Jul 18, 2010 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by TheBlur
He used Lt4 by request of the guy selling me the heads. He wants 1000 with the LT4 springs, 1250 with the other springs. Figured it was a good deal as no core was required but maybe I should hold off on that deal and work with Llloyd Directly to avoid any mistakes.
Definitely a good idea. Whatever you do, do NOT use those springs.
Old Jul 18, 2010 | 04:04 PM
  #19  
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Yeah just trying to save a buck, not worth it. Oh well, was worth a shot.
Old Jul 18, 2010 | 04:18 PM
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So if I ran the patriot gold springs with the 54CC that wouldn't be hard to deal with during a rebuild to make sure I got the right CR ?
Old Jul 18, 2010 | 04:21 PM
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i started building a 355 a couple months back so far this is what ive got...

i used the speedpro +.030 kit from summit, cloyes true street dbl roller timing set (9-1145) total came up to like $650-$750 if i remember correctly..

bought a used lt4 hotcam kit with new in box springs locks and retainers and spring seats for $200.. owner said cam had like 1500 miles on it, he went to a bigger cam..

machine shop:
pre-cleaned block, bored .030, linebored mains, and post cleaned block. it was like $400. if I added splayed mains it would have been $750

I installed cambearings and freeze plugs myself, these came with the kit..

crankshaft, reground stock for $80

I put main bearings and crank in block and plasti-gauged, and checked thrust myself..

I'm still waiting on my rods,a friend of mine are doing them for free, i'm using stock rods with arp rodbolts, and hes resizing the rods and putting the pistons on for me for nothing, i'll install the rings myself..

if i remember correctly i'll have around $1500 in my shortblock, using arp fasteners on mains, rods, and heads..

I will also use the victor reinz .026 thick head gaskets when i put it all together to get my compression up a little.. the summit kit is 10.5:1 with .040 head gaskets..

Last edited by brucer; Jul 18, 2010 at 04:24 PM.
Old Jul 18, 2010 | 04:26 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by TheBlur
So if I ran the patriot gold springs with the 54CC that wouldn't be hard to deal with during a rebuild to make sure I got the right CR ?
Valve springs don't affect CR. I would call up Lloyd and ask him what springs you should run with his cam. That's the best thing to do at this juncture.
Old Jul 18, 2010 | 06:39 PM
  #23  
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being we're talking internal engine components..
are the 94 lt1 rods forged? i read a couple different places they were, but i doubted it..

i have 2 sets of rods, a set of 94 rods that have the weight pads on the big and small ends, and i also have a set of the powdered metal rods...
Old Jul 18, 2010 | 09:48 PM
  #24  
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No stock LT1 rods were forged steel.
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 01:29 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
No stock LT1 rods were forged steel.
I believe they all were until mid '94 when they switched to the pm rod.
For the shortblock google " ellwein 355 "
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 01:34 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by lt1-xjs
I believe they all were until mid '94 when they switched to the pm rod.
For the shortblock google " ellwein 355 "
I stand corrected...thanks.
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 08:10 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by brucer
actually NO, splaying wouldnt be needed,just good insurance, but i would atleast use some studs.. i've used studs without lineboring before, as i've replaced bolts with studs and have measured the main bores on 2 different blocks and they dont distort... i think thats just a story machine shops have come up with so people spend more money.. my thinking on that is that the main caps are nested into the registers and the registers and the caps are flat so what is there to distort?



Not true, you either have a piece of crap bore gauge, or don't know how to use it. If you run the main clearance loose enough, way loose....you may get away without a line hone, but don't do the people on here the disservice of saying that they can run studs without line honing, it's simply not true and can cause a multitude of failure origins.
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by MachinistOne


Not true, you either have a piece of crap bore gauge, or don't know how to use it. If you run the main clearance loose enough, way loose....you may get away without a line hone, but don't do the people on here the disservice of saying that they can run studs without line honing, it's simply not true and can cause a multitude of failure origins.
my bore gage is a mitutoyo and ive been using it for around 22years... i'm not an automotive machinist, i'm a lowlife tool&die maker and gearhead, so i think i can use and read a bore gage, and O.D. and I.D. mics just fine... i also dbl checked with 3 strips of plasti-gage. when you do that it would show up a mismatch...

explain to me then, if your caps are sitting flat in the register, and on the flat surfaces of the maincaps, and tight in the registers, if you oil the surfaces where the torque is applied wheres the cap going to go?

now in this guys case looks like the maincaps were loose in the registers a little (not the tap fit) when they were torqued which caused them to twist with the applied torque.. I would suggest a touch-in on that block for sure..

Last edited by brucer; Jul 19, 2010 at 09:48 PM.
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 09:03 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by brucer
my bore gage is a mitutoyo and ive been using it for around 22years... i'm not an automotive machinist, i'm a lowlife tool&die maker and gearhead, so i think i can use and read a bore gage, and O.D. and I.D. mics just fine... i also dbl checked with 3 strips of plasti-gage. when you do that it would show up a mismatch...

explain to me then, if your caps are sitting flat in the register, and on the flat surfaces of the maincaps, and tight in the registers, if you oil the surfaces where the torque is applied wheres the cap going to go?

now in this guys case looks like the maincaps were loose in the registers a little (not the tap fit) when they were torqued which caused them to twist with the applied torque..
Ah a fellow machinist. My confidence just went up at tackling this job. You seem to have your head in the game. I just hope I can tackle some of the work like you did and save the $$$.

Low life tool and die LoL, your at the top of the machinist world. Dying trade but still around.
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 09:45 PM
  #30  
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ts good to see fellow machinists and tool&die guys floating around, probably some of the most flexible and talented people you'll ever meet.. I love talking to the older guys about the trade, they make me feel stupid sometimes.

i was involved with building the tooling that mass produced the obd1 and obd2 computer cases for delphi..

also was involved with the making of misc components, for gm corvette(tooling for crossmember),saturn(tooling for plastic shifter base), chrysler transmission pump bodies, ford aluminum A-arms for the f100, cadillac dashboard tooling.. also cut many electrodes to EDM these components.. crazy tolerances on this stuff, kept your mind in it for sure, and you couldnt have bad days .

corvette was extremely strict with confidentiality, had to sign contract papers to work on the job.. be suprised to know where the parts were ran..

sorry for the hi-jack



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