Trying to get an idea. I know roughly what it would cost but I'm still not sure. For 3,000 you can get a built 383 from Golen Engines the only downfall is the cast crank but that's ok I won't be spraying.

So take that into consideration with LE3 heads and it would come to about $5,000 ($1,600 LE3, etc). I'm thinking I could do a lot of the work myself and just pay to do a 355 LE2. I'm wondering if I could have a shortblock built for around $2,000 including machine work using scat rods, KB Forged pistons, Clevite bearings, factory crank grinded, 4 bolt main conversion.

In everybody elses experiece how much did it cost you ?

I could dissassemble and reassemble the short block myself. I'd let them replace the bearings, bore/hone the cylinders, clean/magnaflux, fit the rings, etc. I'm sure I'd save at leaste $500 assembling the block myself.

 

Do NOT use the cast Eagle stuff, ESPECIALLY in the Golen blocks. Very very bad stories about them, two of which I've seen first-hand.

My 383 short block ended up costing me around $3900. That included labor, parts (all forged), and machine-work. IMO, you'd be foolish to use a cast crank on a 383. You'll be kicking yourself if you don't splooge for the forged piece.

If I were in your situation where budget is a concern, you can't go wrong with a reconditioned stock crank with forged rods and pistons. The LE2/355 combo is a proven performer.

 

Sounds good but what do you guestimate that would cost ? Could it be had with heads/cam included for around $4,000 ?

 

You're asking if a 355 short block could be built for $2,000 with forged rods, forged pistons, new rings/bearings, and a reconditioned stock crank? I think you could do it, sure. But as far as the engine as a whole is concerned there are secondary expenses as well, like rockers, timing chain, head gaskets, tune, etc., which add up QUICK. I wouldn't expect a fully-running built engine for $4k though.

 

Well, let's think about that. Definitely would need bigger injectors 32lb maybe, new opti, oil pump, I have an electric water pump already new in box, gaskets galore, i'm about to buy LE2 Heads, LE Emission cam, plugs/wires, then all the machine work......Damn, pretty hard to crunch all the numbers too many damn variables but I'm elimating as many as I can.

Weird, the machinist I tried to get a quote from couldn't give me one without knowing the volume of the LE2 heads. He's trying to figure out what the compression would be and what pistons to run in conjunction with the heads. If I had that bit of information I could get a complete quote from him then post on here what he said and get some input.

 

Make sure your builder knows that conventional SBC compression wisdom does not apply to LT1s, and that you can easily run 12:1+ compression. I've seen far too many LT1 builds that have dropped compression down to 10:1 and they have been absolute dogs. For what you're looking to do, I'd target a static compression around 11.5:1.

 

Amazing you said that, he said he would target a 10:1 compression. Told him I was getting advice from folks on the internet and he laughed. Guess he doesn't know about Camaroz28.com

 

The heads are 54CC just found that out. Hopefully that will be enough for him to give me a good quote. Will LT4 springs work with the LE emission cam ? Says it's comparable to the hot cam so I'd assume so.


223/230 .565/.565 112 LSA. - 1700-6100 RPM
Largest emissions friendly cam. Pretty mild idle and still able to work with stock gears
and factory converter in F or Y body. Needs small stall and gears for B body. Comparable
to GM Hot Cam and Crane 846 cam.

 

So your builder is unaware of the amazing cooling capabilities of the LT1. Heheh. Explain to him how the reverse flow cooling works, then tell him YOU want a target static compression ratio of 11.5:1.

The LT4 springs are nowhere near capable of handling that cam. When you order heads from Lloyd, he will provide them fully-assembled with the springs you need (likely Bullet 2700s), so don't worry about valve springs.

 

its not that he doesnt know about the forum, he doesnt know about the reverse flow cooling and the computers on an lt1...

for machining the block he doesnt need to know anything, except your running forged pistons...

i've put several engines together in my lifetime, for a standard naturally aspirated build i have never gottten rings that i had to gap myself, i check them but they never have need gapping, dunno if i'm lucky or the machine shop and the rings i'm using are that consistent...

i dont care much for KB pistons, i would use the speed pros in the summit racing kit before i would use the KB's, just my opinion.

what i would do for a 355 build i would bore block .030, splayed mains, new cam bearings,freeze plugs,use the summit rebuild kit with speedpro forged pistons ($650), melling select oil pump with high pressure spring, stock crank, forged rods, cloyes dbl roller timing chain,and balance the rotating assembly..
i've read on here that stock rods with arp rodbolts work good also..

the shop i use says a stock crank and stock rods with arp rodbolts, if he balances the assembly will be good to 6500rpm..

 

Do you think that for a fairly mild 355 the cost of splaying the mains is warranted? Splaying the mains is a several hundred dollar upgrade. IMO, in a ~475HP application, the stock 2-bolts are plenty. They've seen some BIG power without fail.

 

Well, the heads from Lloyd Elliot are 54CC with hotcam springs. Will that effect my build much and is this ok ? I'm sure it will work with his emission cam fine but if I'm not mistaken most heads done by him are 53CC. Mine are 54CC (buying them from somebody still new)

 

You can't use the hotcam springs with the lift on that cam, period. Are you ordering the heads from Lloyd? He should include a spring that will match the requirements of the cam.

Don't get hung up on the CCs of the heads. There are many other variables that affect your CR that can easily be changed, like head gasket thickness.

 

No a member on here bought them then decided not to use them. Hence why they are 54cc/hot cam springs.

 

actually NO, splaying wouldnt be needed,just good insurance, but i would atleast use some studs.. i've used studs without lineboring before, as i've replaced bolts with studs and have measured the main bores on 2 different blocks and they dont distort... i think thats just a story machine shops have come up with so people spend more money.. my thinking on that is that the main caps are nested into the registers and the registers and the caps are flat so what is there to distort?