Is that 500 rear wheel HP through an M6 (12.5% loss), a 4L60E (17-18% loss) or a race-prepped TH400 (22-25% loss)? The engine could be making anywhere from 570 - 670 flywheel HP.

The whole "rwHP" thing is silly. How fast is it? That's all that really matters.

 

That's a good point. Ben Moore's '94 LT1 was in Hot Rod a year or so ago with an N/A LT1 and a TH300 trans. He was only making 456 horse and 397 torque to the wheel, but his quarter mile was 9.9X at 138 mph on a stock computer!

 

I agree...a dyno is s tuning tool...if you can't hook it up and put down a number is all just bench racing anyway.

 

theres gotta be many people that make those numbers, problem is like most message boards, the fastest people dont come on here much since they already know pretty much all they need to know.

My cousins bone stock 60K short block, 6spd, made 436hp with heavily ported afrs, lt4, flps, meziere, lt1 edit, so on so on, we built the car in 2000, he got it dynoed in 2001 and made 430hp at the wheels, then dynoed the car right before he sold it last year, with 98k on it, and thats when it put down the 436hp. The car still had ac, egr, air, stock rear ( with 410's) and was driven regularly, only thing we did was plugs and oil, and the car was in no way babied, the only reason the rear stayed together was the car was never launched, and no power shifts. The right combination of parts will get you a long way, along with the right mechanic. My dad worked for gm high perf division in the 70s, had a de stroked small block 65 chevelle in the low 10s in 1970 ( several time slips to back this up from the no longer new york race way, and a few from english twn) and he has built well over 200 high perf engines.

The dyno operator couldnt belive the car still had a stock shortblock, and was floored by the numbers, both in 2000, and last year. Without a doubt in my mind the car would have put down over 500 reliable rwhp with a stroker, not to mention getting rid of those junk stock pistons we all have. The car has sold last year to somebody in ct, and is still alive and kicking with im sure over 100k on it by now.

 

Do you have a time or mph goal? Whats the weight of the car? Do you have suspension? Where do you intend on racing in (what elevation, temp, humidity=DA)? Some of these replies have brought up excellent points, with hp loss from diff tranny's etc, different dynos, conditions. All things being equal you'll get better results from your question by setting a mph or ET goal. For instance a 500 rwhp car, with a nice suspension, cutting <1.4 60', in decent running conditions (DA), with a 3400 lb weight will run a mph of
135-140 give or take a little. The smart guys on this board (I'm def not one of them) will give you better info using MPH and ET as a goal, b/c dyno's don't tell you how a car really runs. I think I know what you are asking and I think its possible. Good luck, I hope you get there!

 

If it's worth anything I have 433 to the wheels, and it's daily driven. It's my only car, and it's honestly really drivable. My end goal is 500 to the wheels, not sure yet how to go about doing it though...

 

http://advancedinduction.com/AiPerfLT1.html
small cam for a SR , phill told me. factory castings , only 200cc and it made 480 rwhp.

 

I was actually thinking of going SR... Maybe with some nitrous on top.

 

theres been LE3 setups that put down 450 or more on here. I think i remember seeing one around 470. Do a solid roller instead of a hydraulic, and youd be at the 500 mark probably

 

I don't care who you are that's funny right there.

 

If i didn't have so much $$ into my car I would have sold it for an LS1 a long *** time ago...

 

It's not that easy, and most people don't want to have to deal with the hassle of a solid roller on a street car.

 

It can be done with a HR setup thats not the problem, you need some really good heads to do it along with the intake.
The Heads, intake, and the cam is where the power is at.
Its hard to do with factory castings with a HR motor but it still could be done.
To make things easy get some converted SBC heads, with a SBC intake (don't have to convert bolt pattern) and then you can most likely whoop up on the LSX boys.
A guy on here made 700RWHP on motor with a LT1 N/A, he had some nasty SB2.2 Heads (Nascar style heads)

To make it streetable to most people, get some heads in the 330 range and throw in a mid 230 duration cam along with a good intake and 600+FLYWHEEL should not be a problem.

RWHP numbers can be manuipulated to easy
IF your trapping 130+ in the 1/4 depending on the weight of the car you have more than 500RWHP, lol

I frequent the Forced indution forum often and I have seen mulitple times the 6-speed 800RWHP cars trapping 140mph, Same guy puts in a Th400 and only has 685RWHP but still traps 140mph.

 

Why do people think a solid roller is a "hassle"? Adjust the valves in the first 1000 miles, then every 5000 miles afterward. The people(like me) that have built max effort LT1's, 5000 miles may only come once a year. You can get solid roller cams with easy ramps that are not hard on the valvetrain. early 4 cyl Honda engines were "solid" valve adjustment every 30,000 miles. early 70's muscle had solid flat tappet cams from the factory.

People that build engines like is this thread do not daily drive them...it is a weekend toy.


David

 

Very good points, KID. There is a 600+ FWhp 396 LT1 out there with a very driveable torque curve. It idles quite smoothly ~900, pulls strongly from the teens, has a very flat torque curve, and peaks power in the low-mid 6000 range.

KID called it: The heads are not GM, but they are for an LT1 and were ported by one of the best in the country. It's not an LT1/4 intake either, but it is a modified cast aluminum one. And yes, the HR cam was very specific to the combination.

The owner wants a stealthy DD, so he's not braggin' nor even talking about it. I doubt if he's chassis dynoed it, but with 600+ on the engine dyno, 500 rw probably isn't much of a stretch. It's his fun car...a whole lot of fun.

No it's not cheap, either.