I've been reading around and was wondering, where should you shift a stock high mileage(194,000+) LT1? Should you let it hit the rev limiter(I think it is 5800?) or lift a bit off the throttle some time before then to make it shift? I want to get a cam soon, once I get some LTs. I know most will force the max HP up a couple 100 rpms, would I be safe shifting at 6000-6100?

 

I doubt that anyone can answer your question: only your engine knows. JMHO

 

I just hit 150,000 miles on mine and when I had my 4.11 gears, I would shift out at 6400 RPMs. It's not so much what your motor can take as where it makes its power. Sure it may not blow up at 6200 RPMs, but do you really make the power at that range to justify pulling to there? Get it dyno'd after the cam is broken in and the dyno sheet will tell you where to shift.

 

With 194K on the motor I would look to rebuild it soon (at least new bearing and rings) if you plan to rev it past 5800 rpm.

 

Should be ok, but I'd freshen it up like Maldo said. I wouldn't personally cam a 194k motor.

 

I wouldnt even think about it. I hesitated about caming a 120K

 

I did a complete rebuild at 145xxx. Instead of just doing the mods. I think you will be much happier if you do. So save your money and do it right the first time.

 

you can safely rev it up to a 383

 

Its a crap shoot. Some guys do a cam swap at 80k miles and spin a bearing, other guys cam a 150k mile car and never have trouble.

I wouldnt let it stop me, but if you absolutely cant afford a rebuild in the near future running the hell out of your engine isnt the best thing, stock or not.

 

If it holds good oil pressure fine. If it don't then get the right oil in it to hold pressure in the upper range (at least 45-50psi)Then go have fun.If she blows,she blows.6-6500 would be my max if it pulls up there.

Put a manual guage on it to check pressure.

 

Thanks guys, I think I'll look into a forged 355 or something before I do anything to the valvetrain and whatnot

 

if you dont plan a major max rebuild i wouldnt worry to much about going fully forged. I say keep it cheap cast crank forged rods and a good set of hyper pistons and it will hold a lot. If you have cash just sitting there it is good insurance or if you plan on blowing it do forged but other than that Keep it simple.

 

Dang, someone beat me. I have 179,000 miles...

 

Hahaha

Yeah, I mean they are ALL highway miles(well, except for the last 4,000 or so) since it was the previous(and only other) owner's daily transportation from chesapeake to richmond. Could you recommend me some parts/brands of pistons/rings/rods/etc because I'm not too familiar with those things.

I would love to have a 400+whp N/A car because that is just sweet as hell, but in reality I think that an STS turbo would be more streetable and gas-friendly since I could turn boost down whenever I want to save gas. I would be happy with 8psi I think since that yields insane gains in itself. But this wouldn't be for a long time.

 

If you are thinking of boosting it for a long period of time you would want to do a rebuild as well. The stock bottom end doesn't like a lot of boost.