LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

How hard to remove intake manifold?

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Old Mar 3, 2003 | 09:29 PM
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BackInBlackZ28's Avatar
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From: Grand Haven, MI
Question How hard to remove intake manifold?

In these winter months, i have become bored and my car knows it! I was thinking of removing the intake and cleaning it an painting it red. How hard is it to remove? I have done quite a few things under the hood : 1.6RR's, painted valve covers and TB plate, ported MAf, and a bunch of other things. Will i have any problems with this, and i will need new gaskets too right? What are the gasket p#s and how much? Thanks for all the help in advance!
Old Mar 3, 2003 | 09:46 PM
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New gaskets shouldn't be too much. Get Felpro. Just make sure you remember where all the vacuum line go back in - you don't want a vacuum leak. When bolting the manifold back on, follow the recommended tightening sequence for proper sealing and use thick dabs of Balck RTV silicone on the front and back to prevent the infamous intake manifold oil leak.
Old Mar 4, 2003 | 02:13 PM
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BackInBlackZ28's Avatar
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Thanks yea doesnt sound too bad..Is there any porting i should do to the intake with a dreml while i have it off? anything worth my time? Thnaks guys!
Old Mar 4, 2003 | 03:11 PM
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Originally posted by BackInBlackZ28
Thanks yea doesnt sound too bad..Is there any porting i should do to the intake with a dreml while i have it off? anything worth my time? Thnaks guys!
unless u plan on huge mods in the future..like h/c, i say porting isnt necessary, but its up to u
Old Mar 4, 2003 | 03:17 PM
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What's h/c?
Old Mar 4, 2003 | 03:25 PM
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h/c = heads/cam
Old Mar 4, 2003 | 04:23 PM
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I just did this this past weekend and it wasnt too bad. Looks harder than it is. I would suggest using copper RTV instead of the black RTV, the copper has a higher temp. rating and the black stuff is used from the factory and so many of these cars have this problem so why use it again? Also buy some maximum strength locktite and use it on the intake bolts so they wont back out after you put them in. I would also let the car sit at least a day or 2 after using the RTV and just put the manifold back on then go back once or twice and retighten the bolts if need be. Hope this helps

Myles
Old Mar 4, 2003 | 05:18 PM
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I agree with Myles, except I would use Locktite Blue, NOT Red. Red shouldn't be used in aluminum as far as I know, and would probably make a problem if you ever need the intake/heads off later.

It really isn't hard, just a bit time consuming removing all the stuff in the way.
Old Apr 5, 2003 | 09:05 PM
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Anyone got a write-up on this?
Old Apr 5, 2003 | 09:20 PM
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I wouldn't really use any loctite on them. Throw some arp thread sealer on them and that'll prevent em from backing out while still allowing you to take it out again without having to rip the hell out of the bolts :-).
Old Apr 5, 2003 | 09:27 PM
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I sure hope it's not hard, because mine has to come off this week for my cam install.... or whenever I get around to it, heh.... it's been on ramps in the garage for 2 weeks now, doh!

-Michael
Old Apr 5, 2003 | 10:07 PM
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Yeah I gotta pull mine off to figure out what's clicking. It looks hard, too many wires!!! That, and I'm nervous about the fuel lines.
Old Apr 5, 2003 | 10:26 PM
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Not too bad of a job if you just do that. I started modding because of my intake oil leak. It was one of those..."since I am in here lets do a cam, rocker arms, powercoat, ect, ect." It's easy to get carried away but it's fun. Pics of before and after powercoated intake are in my sig.

Jeff D.
Old Apr 5, 2003 | 10:39 PM
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Originally posted by ltlhomer
I wouldn't really use any loctite on them. Throw some arp thread sealer on them and that'll prevent em from backing out while still allowing you to take it out again without having to rip the hell out of the bolts :-).
Agree. Thread sealant, not Loctite. Most of the bolt holes go through into the head and are open on the other end. You can see the bottom of the bolts when the valve covers are off.
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