The eagle caps are very inexpensive verse some others. Are they good quality. I would really like to 5 piece oliver set but don't want to spend a grand. I'm building a 383 stroker, Cola 3.75 4340 crank, eagle H beams. The motor will probably start life around 450 NA, and eventually could see 650+ supercharged. I also want to road race so it needs to be bullet proof. Should I still stud the caps?

Ya, I'm a newbe here, but I've road raced motorcycles for years and its time for a street\track car.

Thanks for any input.

 

Well the bolts suck nuts... I have the ARP PN's you need for the bolts if you use them, and you have to pick up some ARP washers to go with them. They aren't the easiest to machine either. Either you are going to spend the money making the caps work or spend the money on good caps, works out around the same coin.

Always use studs, they are cheap and better than bolts.

I would use the Pro Gram caps. Oliver makes some nice caps too. You really only need the center 3 caps anyways. The Pro Gram PN you want is SB350C22 ($226) http://www.pro-gram.com/catalog.jsp

Good Luck,

Bret

 

Yep - I use Pro-Gram and Silver Seal. Use flat caps and pay to have the block machined to accept them, you need to spread the load out the pan rails by registering the cap outboard.

 

I would be interested in the ARP part numbers for hardware

 

I have installed many, many sets of Eagle splayed main caps. They are a strong billet steal. Compared to Pro-Gram caps they do not have as much meat on them but that does not make them a bad cap. If money is not an optional install Pro-Gram. If you want to save $100 bucks or so go with Eagle. Either way, you are going to have $225-$275 in line bore and hone in you install the caps your self. Look to spend $350 or so to have the caps installed at the shop if your make the part purchase. Stud the mains!

Jake
www.cpengines.com