Yeah read some of that thread thats good stuff right there I think I'll shoot for 383 200hp direct inject n2o and haven't decided on a cam thats going to take awhile to plann out, hope I can get the stock heads massaged enuff to feed the bottom end I'd like to keep the stall around 3k so it will have some street manners but from what I've been hearing/seeing a good tune is what makes these cars shine off the track when it comes to street driving. Hears another good question how do the stock manifolds stand up when it comes to feeding big engines do yo have to do alot of porting on them

 

I have the same goals as you and this is what I am putting together right now:

383 shortblock will fully forged internals, set-up to run nitrous, specifically a 200 shot reliably. Went with the high end ARP rod bolts rated to 1000hp. Cook Performance Engines has finished my shortblock. ($3500)

200cc CNC ported heads from Advanced Induction with their ported intake. Also purchased new lifters, 1.6rr, pushrods, gaskets from them as well. Custom ground billet cam with the power goals discussed between CPE and AI directly. ($3000)The entire engine will be assembled by CPE in the next week or so.

I am running the 58mm Holley Throttle body, 42# FMS injectors, Hooker Ceramic coated longtubes, Y pipe with QTP exhaust cut-out. Computer to be tuned by PCMforless shortly. ($2200)

I have to line out the suspension and drivetrain and fuel delivery but I counting on the above combination to be good for 10's if I can get the power to the ground. This is a 6 speed car that will be a daily driver first. Really wanting to take it on the Hot Rod Power Tour 2009. Hope this help you.

 

Sounds like you gonna have one heck of a beast when its all together How are you going to feed your nitrous I'm leaning toward the direct inject route.. what kind of comp ratio are you aiming for with that setup did you use any type of piston coating

 

if your only spraying say a 150 shot just go wet, our intakes dont have a big problem with puddling. i spray a 300 shot through 2 fogger nozzles before the TB, no problems.

 

You could drive to Ashland KY and get a dyno tune from a LT1 guru for about the same price you'd pay for a generic mail order tune. PM me if you want more info.

 

i dont think he indicating that his tune was 2200. For 100 bucks pcm4less or madwolf are going to be hard to beat. Most places that dyno tune around here. (chicago) want 100 for 2 dyno pulls. No tuning, the pcm tunes start at 250 which includes two pulls. The dyno tunes are 400+.

 

I was wanting to spray at least a 200 shot wet when you say before the TB is that with the nozzle before the MAF also.. If its before I will assume its a dry system ? or is it.. 300 is a heck of a hit How did you put your engine together what kind of ET's are you turning in

 

le2 with a 125 shot ... that was my plan before I decided to ditch the car all together ---

 

you dont spray before the maf ever on a lt1. both pins are mounted in the elbow.

 

How are you compensating for fuel if you dont spray before the maf on a dry system

Are any of you guys running coated pistons I was thinking about going that way if its worth the trouble

 

1. i spray a wet kit
2. a dry kit compensates by putting pressure on the FPR to trick the car into adding more fuel.
3. go wet
4. repeat step 3

 

LT1 maf's do a very bad job of realizing that n2o is being sprayed into the air/fuel stream into the engine. Its not a good idea to run a dry kit on a lt1.

There are only 2 companies that make dry kits for lt1's and they both use another device to add the extra fue. On the NOS kit they have a fuel pressure regualtor that jacks up the pressure to 55psi or something, its not the maf adding the extra fuel. For the ZEX kit, it uses a electronic box/device to add the fuel. so please dont think spraying before the maf like on another standard application.

SO unless your going to run a FAST setup or another aftermarket computer go wet. Ask around in the N20 section. Very few people run a dry kit, and the ones that do are mostly Ls1's.

As for 10's, if you get a good heads/cam setup you should be around 400rwhp/400rwtq and than a 125/150 should get you there. Or it will at least provide enough mph for a 10 second slip. (124-128mph) Its wont be the motors fault if you cannot make good use of the power its making.

If you planning on n2o get pistons for it. The piston and ring choices will make huge differences on reliablity/ longevity of the motor and results from it.

 

Yeah I've just about got my mind made up i'm going to go with a 383 kit and AI 200cc h/c kit And have the intake ported to match heads and a 58 mm tb and 42lbs injectors and a 200hp wet shot with a nano system keep my 3.73 gear and drop in a vagilante coverter aournd 3k to 3.5k tubular k-member upper and lowers to match I'm pretty much going to see what happens from there If it breaks I'll replace it ...Fire in the hole

 

look into llyod elliot if your going to go with AI for heads and cam. They are very similar companies.

 

Back then I ran a 150shot but with a good bottomend 355", LE ported heads/ CC306cam and a 200shot the car ran 9.83@136mph.