Hey guy's here a question for ya how to get my 95 z/28 LT-1 running 10's even high 10 is fine by me car is basicly stock typical bolt on stuff lt headers cold air etc etc and 3.73 gear and qtp cut out, now the engine and tranny are coming back out this fall engine only has 5k same for tranny but horsepower is the subject I'm thinking 383 stroker 200hp of spray direct inject some good heads should I go ARF or send my stockers to LE to be reworked and of course the cam I'm sure It will have to be a custom grind to get the most out of the no2 hit I would really like to keep the stock auto it has already been beefed up by a local trans guy but will probaly drop in a 3k to 3.5k stall. I no this is vague at the very best. What kind of engine combinations have you guys put together to achive this type hp to dip into the 10 second range I know car setup has alot to do with it but got to have the HP to get there first and just looking for a place to start from with some help from experenced wrenches like yourselfs thanks alot in advance.. PS I live in mustang land and can't wait to start kill'n horse meat in the spring lol Thanks JB

 

I'm gonna tell you right now that your "beefed up" trans isn't going to hold up, unless your local guy is someone like CPT, Performabuilt, or FLP.

 

I would think a good cam, stall, LTs and 150 shot with an awesome suspension tire setup would get you damn close.

 

Danhr IF you don't have anything worth adding then don't post S-H
I've got faith in my guy he builds about all the proformance trans around these parts It should hold and if it don't I'll yank it out and punt no big deal .. I thought this tread my get the attention of the guys who have true 10s rides must not be that many around here Oh well guess i'll have to wing it..

 

4K stall, big cam, good flowing heads, 150shot.
you will either be in the 10's or parked around the 60foot mark.

 

unless you have tons of work into your trans it wont hold, i have a 700R4 converted into my Z28 with a full manual valve body and everything in the trans is top shelf, i have well over 3K into the trans and i cringe everytime i launch the car on spray, fyi a transgo stage 2 tranny is not beefed up... but your biggest thing to get into the 10's is going to be suspension you can have all the power in the world but if you cant get it to the ground its not worth squat.
to run 10s reliably the easiest way is a power adder, but remember i hope you have deep pockets! the faster you go the more you break! and also remember your safety equiptment! NHRA rules say you have to have a roll bar at 11.5... i have a wolfe cage and love it!

 

light vehicle weight and GOOD 60 ft times are your friends.

If you get the car "tin canned" and in the 3000 lb range (with driver) and get a GOOD converter (Yank/Vigilante 4000-4400 stall) with good suspension so the car gets a 1.35-1.40 60 ft, you can do it on 400 RWHP.

the average 3600 lb (with driver) F body getting the aveage 1.65 60 ft will need ALOT more power to see low 11's, much less a 10 second pass.

Lloyd

 

Thank you Night Train

That was the kind of input I've been asking for the combinations that make 10 second
4th generation cars Not people yacking about bust'n parts and how my trans wont hold up. Guys this ain't my first rodeo I have built several strip cars in the past But this is my first LT-1 FI car with a ECM Hooked to it so I'm kinda on new ground here Hints why I've got like 3 post so don't look down your nose at me yet Thats what I hate about forums people are sitting around like cocked guns waiting to pop someone when in all likely hood most of the experence they have is from reading someone else's post or hanging out around someone else's car at the track when really the car they drive would cut a 13second run on the best of day ..

I know about the old wet vs dry N2O fued but in my experence with carb'd plate systems wet has always worked for me best but I know you run into fuel puddling more in FI cars so I'm thinking of going direct inject by my thinking this should greatly reduce fuel puddling, distrbution/vapor problems Is my way of thinking correct here

 

I'd like to remind people that this site is primarily for two things: To share and gain knowledge, and to be a positive part of this community. I shouldn't have to delete posts where neither is present.

 

Maybe I should have phrased my orginal post better IF YOU HAVE A CAR that et's is at 10.99 or lower or if you build engines or produce parts for engines and you are open to discussing diffrent engine combinations cams,heads,power adders,etc,etc that generally produce enuff power to get a pudgy 4th gen f-body into this et bracket please post if are not one types listed above just read and go on. Now with that said maybe this thread will take a new direction. I'm going to stroke the engine but Is going up to 396 pushing the block to hard with big shot of nitrous or should I stay with 383. Lloyd what do you suggest with the heads can you massage the stockers into flowing the numbers it will take I want to shoot for about 450 to 500 RWHP on the engine can this be done and still remain streetable enuff to drive around some ..

 

Like stated your going to need a real built trans. Im not sure your local guy will cut it.
As for the motor, you mentioned spray. If you want to use it your going to have a much easier time getin a 10.99 or lower. Build a 355, or 383 roughly around 400rwhp(hopefully more tho). Make sure the pistons and rings are for n2o use. a 150-200 hit should get ya there.

Like llyod said if you can get the car around 3000 pounds, 400rwhp will do it alone. The majority will never get that far with that much power.

The suspension will have a lot to do with it too. Weight transfer, 60fts, a weight alone will be big factors

 

You have it backwards. Build your suspension and drivetrain, then add the power.

As long as you're already planning on doing both, you might as well not deal with broken stuff.

There's nothing all that impressive about a car that runs high 12's or low 13's at 125 mph, but a car that runs a mid 11 at 110 is frickin' sweet.

 

It's not very hard to get a 3,500lb F-body into the 10's with some spray but to do it all motor takes a good combo of parts in the engine, converter, tranny, rearend and suspension. I ran 10.80's@125mph on a stock LT1 shortblock(LE heads/cam) 3k converter, stock supension, and 3.42's in the stock 10bolt. But the stock shortblock did not like the added power too much.

 

TA\lt1 how much spray were you using...

 

Check out ths guys car! https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=552342 10.89 @ 118mph on a 140,000 mile stock LT1 with some juice.