I just bought a new one and I'm screwing it in right now. I forgot how far the other one was screwed in. It seems like it's getting harder to get in, but here is still a bunch of threads showing.

 

Its a tapered pipe thread. Torque to spec, not to depth.

 

Damn. I don't have torque wrench, nor do I have the specs.

 

When I puled mine out to drain the block I just put some teflon tape on it and tighten it enough that it won't vibrate out.
Works fine to this day.


Chris G.

 

I believe it's 15 ft.lbs. But check a Haynes manual to be sure.

 

I replaced the knock sensor and no more ses light

However, I still get up to 7* of knock retard when I gun it sometimes. I think I've just got some vibrations in a few places.

 

Most definitely do not do this. You should never put anything on the threads of the knock sensor (thread selant, thread locker, and especially teflon tape). It won't work right and you could cause major damage to your engine if you start detonating.

Do it the right way, get a torque wrench and torque to spec. To little or too much and you won't get accurate results.

 

OK but let me ask you this how the hell are you going to fit a torque wrench up there?
And also that is a coolant drain so If you don't put any sealant on it how are you going to make sure it will not leak?
Thanks,

Chris G.

 

I'm curious how you get a torque wrench in there also. When I did my coolant flush a few months ago the knock sensor and the other drain plug were a PIA to get at with my LTs.

 

I have an ODDI conversion so I have to swap the KS once in a while
for my emmissions testing (when I put the OBDII PCM in). I just jack
up the front end really high and can get in there with my 3/8" torque
wrench. Of course, I have stock manifolds. LTs are a different story.

Also if you do this cold, there will be a bit of negative pressure in the
radiator. This allows you to very quickly swap the KS and only loose
a tiny bit of coolant in the process.

 

A new knock sensor will come with some thread sealant on it.

I wouldn't use tape, but a thread sealing paste like ARP thread sealant should be fine.

 

My new knock sensor didn't come with sealant on the threads and said specifically not to use any.

Anyway, I was able to fit a long extension through some gaps and get a direct line on the knock sensor with a torque wrench. But come to think of it, that was also before I had long tubes.

 

How much torque should I figure I am losing through the swivel and the extension?

 

If it is not leaking, don't worry about it. It just has to be tight enough not to leak.

 

As long as you keep the end of the torque wrench directly over the centerline of the sensor, you don't affect torque at all by the length of the extension or the presence of a swivel joint.