How does everyone like their street twin for daily driving?
How does everyone like their street twin for daily driving?
Wondering what you guys think of the street twin with the adjustable master cylinder for normal daily driving? Smooth, almost as soft as stock pedal?
How about the clutch chatter? All gears easy to get? Approximately where in the pedal travel does it start to grab?
Lastly, has it broken anything with or WITHOUT hard launches?
and how long have you had it on the car?
How about the clutch chatter? All gears easy to get? Approximately where in the pedal travel does it start to grab?
Lastly, has it broken anything with or WITHOUT hard launches?
and how long have you had it on the car?
I've been running the aluminum FW ST for over 2 years, only as a street car (haven't been back to the track since putting it in).
It's just fine for DD. Pedal pressure is a little harder than stock, but not much. It engages about 1/3 down, which is how I adjusted the MC.
It catchs all gears fine. Once in awhile I have to go through the motion to get R when I first start it up and back out of the garage. I probably just need to rebleed it, though.
I'd highly recommend it, even for a DD. It's a great clutch.
It's just fine for DD. Pedal pressure is a little harder than stock, but not much. It engages about 1/3 down, which is how I adjusted the MC.
It catchs all gears fine. Once in awhile I have to go through the motion to get R when I first start it up and back out of the garage. I probably just need to rebleed it, though.
I'd highly recommend it, even for a DD. It's a great clutch.
sweet deal. its just a matter of time before the stroker tears apart the stock clutch, so i figure whynot upgrade while the tranny is out?
Still debating over the flywheel material....the aluminum is about half the weight of the steel.
Still debating over the flywheel material....the aluminum is about half the weight of the steel.
twin bliss
I finished installing mine 2 weeks ago now. Great clutch man! Good ddrvr and snap the **** out of you when you want it to. Mine grabs at 1/3 from top. This could be because I didn't give it enough brk in period. Not sure, still grabs like a mother though, no chatter, smooth as silk.
When I adjusted mine at first it wouldn't completely disengage. I took the link out another .25 - .375" and it shifts perfecly in all gears now. I guess if I were to keep bringing the ball link out it would grab closer to the floor. Any who great clutch! Got mine for 820$ if you're interested let me know.
When I adjusted mine at first it wouldn't completely disengage. I took the link out another .25 - .375" and it shifts perfecly in all gears now. I guess if I were to keep bringing the ball link out it would grab closer to the floor. Any who great clutch! Got mine for 820$ if you're interested let me know.
fly wheel
I forgot to mention, Defineatley get the aluminum. Your getting the best clutch you can buy and paying with a serious addition of weight. Don't half ars buy the alum. I've got stl and I felt a serious diff. Yea mine barks em in 4th with a mainly stock motor but once i'm in gear it doesn't rap out as quick any more. and if you've got traction problems like everyone else your just wasting energy. My 2 cents
so you can adjust the master cylinder to have the clutch grab at the bottom-middle of pedal travel? IE. Near the floor or in the middle.
everyone seems to like it for DD, but hwo about the aluminum flywheel for drag racing? could money be spent better elesewhere or is it a good upgrade?
everyone seems to like it for DD, but hwo about the aluminum flywheel for drag racing? could money be spent better elesewhere or is it a good upgrade?
wheel
I've never driven one w an aluminum but when I put in my 1LE shaft I swore it felt more nimble as far as acceleration. I would think this would apply here as well.
I was good at statics but dynamics is my shortcoming. so I don't have any comparison to make with the added inertia vs. the redution in rotating mass.
Any one?
I was good at statics but dynamics is my shortcoming. so I don't have any comparison to make with the added inertia vs. the redution in rotating mass.
Any one?
There were a couple of lengthy recent threads on the aluminum vs. steel debate on the street twin in the forced induction and advanced forums.
BTW, I have a steel street twin. Very easy to drive on the street and no chatter after break-in. I don't know how many of the guys saying their steel STs slowed down the car have dyno or track results to back up their SOTP feeling, but my car didn't lose anything in the 1/4 with the heavier flywheel. MPH stayed exactly the same.
As far as breakage, I broke a couple of stock torque arms after getting the ST, but I also had switched to slicks from drag radials at the same time.
BTW, I have a steel street twin. Very easy to drive on the street and no chatter after break-in. I don't know how many of the guys saying their steel STs slowed down the car have dyno or track results to back up their SOTP feeling, but my car didn't lose anything in the 1/4 with the heavier flywheel. MPH stayed exactly the same.
As far as breakage, I broke a couple of stock torque arms after getting the ST, but I also had switched to slicks from drag radials at the same time.
Last edited by RichJ; Jun 15, 2003 at 03:48 PM.
Like RichJ said, do a search on the alum vs. steel debate. Buying a steel FW is not half-assing. Yes, the alum is more expensive, but its not necessarily better. Due to the reduced mass, alum FWs have less inertia, meaning that they are not suited for drag racing. Alum flywheels are primarily for auto-x/road racing. Steel FWs are for drag racing. I'm not saying you can't drag race with alum FWs, but you should really have the right FW for the right job, know what I mean? If you are planning on slicks and hard launches (which is why you want the ST, right?) then go (for sure) with the steel FW.
It was fine for me on the street. If you don't use slicks it won't break anything more than any other clutch.
Al v. steel is hard to say. Mine was aluminum (I have since switched to a TH400) but I am not sure it's worth an additional $200.
Rich Krause
Al v. steel is hard to say. Mine was aluminum (I have since switched to a TH400) but I am not sure it's worth an additional $200.
Rich Krause



Can someone clear this up for me?