I am stuck as to how people were able to remove their oil pans. I raised the engine up as far as possible, far enough that the fuel lines on the back of the engine are hitting the cowl. I need about another 1/2-1" of clearance and I should be able to wiggle the pan out.

I tried unbolting the K-member but the bolts are on so tight I can't get them broken loose with a 1/2" drive and 2' bar. I do not have an impact gun to use, unfortunately.

Also loosed the transmission from the cross member to raise the transmission but that doesn't give me any clearance in the area(s) needed.

I have LT headers and y-pipe so the exhaust is [for the most part] out of the way.

The only other way I see around this is to take the flex plate off, which I do not feel like doing.

Any ideas or help is appreciated.

 

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...cement-787739/

Try reading this. A search will result many more threads.

 

I searched for a few hours before posting and that was one of the threads I found.

Currently I'm trying just about everything to get the car raised. I took the fuel lines off the back so now I have another 1/2" but now my collectors hit the floor pans

Foolish of me thinking this would take 4 hours tops.

 

Finally got it off without dropping the K-member. A total PITA, but it is possible. The trick is raising the engine AS HIGH AS POSSIBLE until it cannot be raised anymore. Then placed wooden blocks cut to the right side underneath the engine mounts to hold it up. This allowed it to slide [just barely] past the flex plate.

 

Thanks for the update. Reading the other threads, it can be a real PITA! Some have better luck, which seems strange.

 

The easiest way I found was to do it on an engine stand... lol!

 

Make sure you didn't break your oil sender on the back of the engine

 

Used cherry picker to raise engine after in bolting rt motor mount. Unbolted tranny cross member. At the time I had factory cats so I took off crossover. Turned the oil pick up tube to make the room. It was a mother, never again, next time I'm dropping the engine. Ps I had to do it twice cause it still leaked, both times. It's difficult to get it back in and keep good seal. Took me half the time and half the cuss words to drop the engine.

 

Pretty sure I did not break anything. The car is completely back together now and the oil pressure looks good at cold start (above half mark) and hot running (around quarter mark). If I broke the oil sender (or anything else for that matter) I think I would have noticed almost immediately .

No obvious oil drips or leaks after 2 heating/cooling cycles, but I'll have to wait till summer to see if some longer trips hold up.

I definitely took my time doing it, making sure I did everything right/the way I wanted it. I completely cleaned the pan outside, as well as the gasket mating area. Used a razer and brake cleaner/acetone to get all the old gasket material off. Then did the same to the engine mating surface except I didn't spray any of the brake cleaner on there (didn't feel like getting it splattered on the engine internals), just put it on a paper towel and wiped away. Both surfaces were perfectly smooth. Then I put some high heat copper RTV sealant around the front and rear dips where the transition between the block and timing cover and rear main cap(?) were to make sure the gasket would hold nicely.

All in all, looking back at it and knowing what I have to do it should only take me a day next time. This time around it took me 3 days of ~6 hours a day (I'm slow and take my time).

And some engine pics

 

I replaced my oil pan gasket back in like 2007 with it on the car. I didn't even remove the oil pan and I snapped my oil sensor off. Not sure how I did it to this day.

I only dropped it enough to finagle the new gasket on. Went on and was leak free until I pulled the engine last summer for a rebuild.

 

In the first pic I posted the oil level sensor sits between that pan/metal sheet and the oil pick up. The thing is made of plastic and even the weight of the oil pan is enough to break it. I almost broken mine trying to put it back on when my header got in the way.

I was also thinking about doing it the way people mentioned with the "sock" method, maneuvering it around the pan and dip stick tube, but there was so much old crap on there and the pan had a dent in it i needed to pound out.

 

I was able to get mine off a few years back with the engine in the car. Replaced the oil pump while I was in there. Definitely broke the oil level sensor since I forgot about it. Its doable.