I have a 1995 5.7l and the 2nd cylinder spark plug wire is broke and not enough room to repair it so want to change them all out but what is the easiest way to do so?

 

One option is over the valve covers or one set runs along the side of the valve cover. I saw them on thunder racings website. I think its a cut to fit set and has mounting clamps. That might be easier than the stock routing( I personally dont know as I run a coil per cyllinder). For my setup for changing plugs I bought one of the pass through design socket sets at home depot and made it way easier.

 

You can't do the over the valve cover thing or beside it, the wires will be too short unless you get a longer wire, they have to be put on the stock way which sucks pretty bad but you have to just get under there and do it and figure it out, there is no easy way.

 

1993-1997 LT1 F-Body Spark Plug Wires from Thunder Racing as I said you can route over or on the side of the valve covers

 

How-to Route Over The Valve Cover Wires | Tech Aids & Articles I posted both these links a few weeks ago so was easy to share. Like I said they are a cut to fit wire so you have to cut them and then crimp the ends on. Pretty easy to do. In fact sometimes the hard part is getting the boot on the wire.

 

Im not sure if you have headers or the stock manifolds as with the manifolds you may be better in the stock location.

 

its pretty much all stock except a cold air kit. What i'm really asking is what all do i have to remove in order to change the wires out for the stock location?

 

The easiest way is to remove the y-pipe and the starter. Then you can get to all the wires on the drivers side. The passenger side is far tougher. Remove the alternator and loosen the mounting bolts on the PS pump. It'll help to remove the AIR fittings as you'll have to snake your hand down next to the AIR plumbing.

Take your time and expect some scraped up knuckles. Buy the best quality wires you can afford as well as a good platinum/iridium plug so you don't have to do this again for a long while.

I run Magnecor wires and can arrest to their quality and performance. Others can recommend others.....take your pick.

It's actually much easier with headers so if you're considering that mod there is a hidden benefit for you...

Good luck!

 

Routing OVC will result in burned up wires with stock manifolds. OVC routing is for headers.

 

Thanks Rob, I dont even remember what it looks like with the manifolds and I got to thinking there isnt the seperation between ports like on headers.

 

Josherey, if you are not aware of shoebox's website for all kinds of info and pictures and test procedures I would look at the bottom of his post and you will see links and I would bookmark his home page. It is a very helpful resource for lt1 owners.

 

The driver side is pretty straightforward; the passenger side is a major pain. Some say remove the air,ps, alternator and bracket I say drop the Y pipe and do it from under, now if you want to change the wires also, then remove accessory bracket and gl. I only plan to do it once on this car, so I installed headers and ran the wires on the valve covers.

 

While changing the head gasket and doing a valve job, I ground off the rivets that hold the heat shields on the exhaust manifolds. Easy when they are off car. Now just pull off shields and change plugs easy, when done just slide the heat shields back on and safety wire them using the old rivets holes. So easy without those shields in the way. OH forgot, I also got rid of the solid medal air pipe and went to hose. Just take off the check valve before removing the heat shields.
I'm still considering the over manifold wiring, is there enough room with the stock manifold?

1995 z28 lt1 oem

 

Changed plugs, wires and manifold, car runs great but my oil pressure guage is all the way pegged past 80. Did something break?

 

Generally means the wire is broken or harness connector is off the oil pressure sensor.

Where the sensor is located depends on the year of your car. You need to add a "signature" with basic info about your car - year, model, engine, trans and any major modifications. That helps people help you, and provide more accurate answers.

If you have a late 94-97:

Courtesy of Shoebox

http://shbox.com/1/oil_pressure_sensor.jpg