horrible brakes after abs removal
horrible brakes after abs removal
I removed the abs unit this winter and the brakes on the car suck. The year before the abs didnt work because of the 9" but the brakes still worked awsome. Now I cant even get the brakes to lock up
I push the pedel about half way and it feels like I hit a wall. No matter how hard I push it budges no more. Anyone have these problems after removal? The only thing that scares me if I ever have to stop fast im screwed. I would like to do something about this before pulling the car out of storage next year.
The way everything is setup. 2 lines out the master, the one closest to the nose of the car is run to a "T" then to each front calipar. The other out the master goes through a propotioning valve.
I push the pedel about half way and it feels like I hit a wall. No matter how hard I push it budges no more. Anyone have these problems after removal? The only thing that scares me if I ever have to stop fast im screwed. I would like to do something about this before pulling the car out of storage next year.The way everything is setup. 2 lines out the master, the one closest to the nose of the car is run to a "T" then to each front calipar. The other out the master goes through a propotioning valve.
Originally posted by BES-383
Get you a set of LS1 brakes front, and back. I have used this setup for a year now without ABS and brakes work fine.
Get you a set of LS1 brakes front, and back. I have used this setup for a year now without ABS and brakes work fine.
Re: horrible brakes after abs removal
Originally posted by sleeperz28
......
The way everything is setup. 2 lines out the master, the one closest to the nose of the car is run to a "T" then to each front calipar. The other out the master goes through a propotioning valve.
......
The way everything is setup. 2 lines out the master, the one closest to the nose of the car is run to a "T" then to each front calipar. The other out the master goes through a propotioning valve.
No, im talking about the booster, its the big black round thing that bolts to the firewall behind the master cylinder. It has the vacuum hose coming out of it to the intake manifold. It uses manifold pressure to "BOOST" the brakes. Its what makes the air releasing noise when you keep hitting the brakes when the car is off.
Re: Re: horrible brakes after abs removal
Originally posted by Injuneer
In the stock setup, the line from the rear of the master cylinder goes to the front brakes, and the one "closest to the nose of the car" is used for the rear brakes. Could that possibly be the issue?
In the stock setup, the line from the rear of the master cylinder goes to the front brakes, and the one "closest to the nose of the car" is used for the rear brakes. Could that possibly be the issue?
Re: Re: horrible brakes after abs removal
Originally posted by Injuneer
In the stock setup, the line from the rear of the master cylinder goes to the front brakes, and the one "closest to the nose of the car" is used for the rear brakes. Could that possibly be the issue?
In the stock setup, the line from the rear of the master cylinder goes to the front brakes, and the one "closest to the nose of the car" is used for the rear brakes. Could that possibly be the issue?
There "was" a proportioning setup (I think it might be better described as a pressure distribution block) in the block on the side of the ABS unit that both lines screwed into. That block also contained the differential pressure switch that identified failure of front or rear braking circuits.
I'm just thinking that it may be an issue not of the pressure developed by the master cylinder relative to the front and rear circuits, but the "volume" of fluid that each part of the master is designed to move. The front brakes have larger pistons than the rear brakes.
I'm just guessing on this and suggesting something you might want to consider. I am not "positive" that is it the issue... just trying to help.
I've seen an "ABS delete" setup that was done on a 4th Gen F-Body by an ex-Formula 1 mechanic, and he incorporated the stock style pressure distribution block, although the one he chose was from an Impala SS. He then installed an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear circuit. This "ABS delete" setup was used in a 30th SS convert, and it had no problem pulling the 3,900# car down from 155MPH trap speeds, with fairly skimpy Mark Williaims front brakes.
I'm just thinking that it may be an issue not of the pressure developed by the master cylinder relative to the front and rear circuits, but the "volume" of fluid that each part of the master is designed to move. The front brakes have larger pistons than the rear brakes.
I'm just guessing on this and suggesting something you might want to consider. I am not "positive" that is it the issue... just trying to help.
I've seen an "ABS delete" setup that was done on a 4th Gen F-Body by an ex-Formula 1 mechanic, and he incorporated the stock style pressure distribution block, although the one he chose was from an Impala SS. He then installed an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear circuit. This "ABS delete" setup was used in a 30th SS convert, and it had no problem pulling the 3,900# car down from 155MPH trap speeds, with fairly skimpy Mark Williaims front brakes.
Last edited by Injuneer; Sep 29, 2003 at 11:35 PM.
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