94TA25ann

The first time I installed my Holley TB it ran like sh*t. So then I did some searches here and on some other websites on how to fix it. I found out that I would have to adjust the TPS sensor, so today I did that and it ran perfect. Idle was right around 650 in nuetral and 550 in drive. The only thing I noticed was if I softly touched the gas pedal and reved it up it would stick when it came back down at about 1000 rpm's. But if i tapped the gas pedal it would unstick and come back down to where it should be. What should I do about this, I tried adjusting the idle screw a little to see if it would get past the sticky point but it only made my car idle higher. I'm frustrated with this TB, I spent over $350 for it and I wouldn't have bought it if I knew it was going to take all this extra effort just to get it to operate fine. Any help or suggestions please.

TraceZ

I'd return it.

Did you know the intake manifold openings are only 48mm? Unless you enlarged the intake openings, you wasted your money.

Not only that, but on mostly stock engines, like your appears to be, the 52mm TB has been proven to make LESS power than the stock one.

the larger TB is ideal for engines with ported heads and intakes, headers, possibly stroked. It is a bad mod for a mostly stock setup. You would be MUCH better off returning the TB and getting a set of 3.73 gears installed to go with your A4. MUCH MUCH better off!!!

FacelessZ

Man you should have just gotten a ported stock TB to 52mm from NOMAD on this web site...I think they're only $150...

94TA25ann

The bores on the intake come stock at 52mm. You only have to port them is if you go to a 58mm TB. I just ordered my gear package from thunder racing. Also I'm waiting for PPC LT header system to come out for the LT1, Gordon at PPC said they would be ready spring time.

TraceZ

Thanks for the correction on the stock size, and congrats on the gears and headers. The new TB will begin to help perfomance once you get those headers on. I didn't know you had those other things on the way.

97WS6SCharged

Just thought I should mention this. You might want to do a search on transmission line pressures and throttlebody changes. You may need a little programming for your A4.

94TA25ann

What should I do about tha throttle body sticking, t must be the blades rubbing the bore right before they come to the idle positon. I alredy tried loosening the torx screws on the blades to try to re-position the blades but tht didn't work. Should i use some really fine sandpaper and rub the areas were I think hit is rubbing?

97WS6SCharged

You could pull it off with all the sensors on it and open and close it, to see if it makes any contact, I would probably file down the blade a bit in the area where it touches. I wouldn't touch the throttle bores themselves as they are supposed to be smooth on the Holley billet throttlebodies. Plus, it's much cheaper to replace the blades if you screw something up.

AxeGrinder30thZ

I dunno. My BBK 52mm TB works just fine. I was told tuning was not needed for a 52mm TB.

Injuneer

If you look at the return spring on the side of the Holley, you will see that the end of the spring sticks into a hole on the body, and the spring can be moved to another hole to adjust the tension. Might possibly help. But if you have the blades rubbing on the bores, theyh need to be sanded down first. My 58mm Holley was just the opposite.... there was a huge open ring around the blades when they were fully closed. I actually had to "enlarge" the blades slightly by tapping the edges of the blades with a flat hammer.

The quality of the Holley products is not up to the price level, and they refuse to correct the exact same problems that people have been bitching about for years. I doubt I would consider another Holley TB. AS&M, or the Lingenfelter/Accel units seems to be made a lot better, but unfortunately are even more expensive.

94TA25ann

thanks injuneer, so I should sand down the actual bores with some sort of file or sand paper. What type grit size sand paper should I use. When I shined my drop light from behind the bores I could se light come through barely in some spots and none in others, so I'm assuming that were the light doesn't shine I should sand in that spot. Correct me if I'm wrong because I don't want to ruin my TB.

12SCNDZ

Before you do anything else...UNHOOK YOUR CRUISE CABLE AND TRY IT! I read countless threads about this problem, but nobody knew about the cruise cable. Once you discover this is your problem, it's a simple matter of adjusting the cable.

Frank

dren70

i just bolted on a ported stocker. it was bored to twin 53.5mm. i am sending the heads and manifold out in a few months to get P&P'd because the intake manifold holes are 52mm. the difference is minimal but still there. mine fired up and ran great with no problems at all. no tuning required on the A4. If the only thing you changed was the TB (going out on a limb here) then it must be a cable hook up or the TB itself. you have already had to make an adjustment on the TPS. throw that into the equation with the differences in the light from behind and i would also send it back. mine closed up tight. no light from behind (it was better than the stock one i pulled off). i searched for return policy and guarantee on the holley website and couldnt find anything (i wonder why). you just paid big bucks for a brand new TB and are going to modify it?? sand paper or hammer?? send it back. at least try another holley TB. good luck.

anaik

Fred, I heard a rumor that you where going to stop posting on this board, and going to pass your knowledge only on to the advanced section. Say it's not true. You and Shoebox are the backbone of this LT1 section. Without your input this section would degrade to the other forums that rely on hit and miss. Do not let the people that think they know it all, and question your knowledge influence you. I can imagine it can be frustrating at times, but the majority of the members wait for your responce to a question that they have no knowledge of.

Injuneer

NO! Sorry if the way I worded it misled you. "Sand" the blades, not the bores.

If you force the blades slightly, is should show a mark on the bore where it is hitting. Mark the back of the blade where the blade is marking the bore, then remove the blades and file them down in that area. I recommend a file, since it will keep the edges of the blade "square".... sanding will tend to round them off.

If correctly made (and who knows if the Holleys are), the blade should be slightly "oval" - narrower in the direction of the shaft - and should have a bevel machined into the edge to allow it to seal with the blade at a slight angle to the bores when it is closed.

Kinsler Fuel Injection sells throttle blades, and according to their tech info, it is a lot more complicated than it appears.


Anaik:

Thanks for the positive feedback.... but there are a few truely obnoxious people who are taking all the fun out of being here. I can't see the point of trying to help people, only to have them complain that I didn't give them the answer I wanted.

Fred