Not really a focal point, just something I went ahead and checked while I'm waiting on a scan and data. At this point, like I've mentioned I can't really do much more without the scan as you all have also told me. So I'm just waiting to get that done and going over things one more time while I wait.

 

Had my scan done today, no data file to share though. 3 main problems. First being the left bank O2 which I replaced with a Bosch sensor, is faulty. Like others have experienced and I have been told the sensor is stuck reading as if it's at WOT. I believe he said the Voltage is stuck at 9V(WOT). So I will need to replace that with another sensor. Second, also recently replaced IAC valve faulty/shot of which I think it too was an aftermarket part(BWD). Third problem, verified my intake manifold leak which is mainly on right bank side front and rear. Also causing my right bank to run lean.

Right bank O2 indicates LEAN, Left bank is faulty. I am going to unplug the faulty sensor and run that way. The only brands my store(Advance) carries in stock are Bosch and Denso, I can have them special order the Delphi unit though. Seemingly Delphi and AC Delco are basically the same?

I bought my IAC at Oreilly and I believe it is BWD brand. It cost me about $40 through them, which I plan to also get the Delphi unit to replace it and will have to cover the difference.

That is what I was told I need to do, replace O2 sensor and IAC with delphi/ac delco units and to fix my manifold leak.

 

IAC Valve- from BWD again; O2 sensor- Delphi; Intake gasket set- FelPro

IAC is on now, the O2 will be here wednesday, and gaskets will be here tomorrow.

Reset the IAC according the shbox, still idled rough for quite some time until after taking it on a drive it settled down. Disconnected the left bank O2 which was faulty and reading WOT at all times. I'm pretty sure the intake leak is creating a vacuum problem. Was told it may or may not do that but seems as though mine is. Sprayed carb cleaner around intake edges and the guy scanning noticed a significant change upon doing that. I didn't get a look but he said the numbers jumped quite a bit(idk what numbers he referred to but I'm sure some of you know). So after replacing the O2 next week and doing my intake gaskets I'll get another scan and see how things turned out.

 

An O2 sensor doesn't read "WOT". From your previous post, it would appear it is stuck at 900 milliVolts (can't possibly indicate 9 Volts - the PCM supplies 450 mV, and the thimble in the sensor can add or subtract 450mV or add about 600mV). 900mV would be a typical reading for power enrichment (PE) mode, which is entered at various combinations of throttle position and RPM, including WOT. Could indicate a voltage leakage from the 12V sensor heater wire in the harness or in the sensor.

The code should be DTC 45.

 

I just went with how he explained it to me, I also couldn't quite remember the voltage so yes 900mv would be what he told me. It stayed at 900mv throughout the entire scan while sitting in the lot. But what could I do about checking the harness? The SES light hasn't been on in a long time, even when the car is running rough and having these problems there is no light. And he didn't mention any codes in the system when he scanned either.

 

If the voltage stays over 700mV for 50 seconds, with the throttle position greater than 4%, the code should set, the SES light comes on, and the PCM defaults to open loop.

If the outside of the sensor is heavily contaminated with oil or some other hydrocarbon, preventing fresh air from entering the sensor from the outside, it could cause this condition.

 

It was a new sensor, Bosch. Which I was told a few times the last few days that they have a tendency to stick at 900mv. It was pretty clean when I took it out.

 

Ok, finished up today on the intake gaskets. Had help with them and they're solid so no worries about a leak there anymore. Replaced injector rings as well and some vacuum hoses. Coolant system has had the air bled out and its fine too.

Rough start which was expected, and car still idles high at around 1800-2000rpm's but it's without the fluctuation now. So, I'm just assuming since it's been so far out of whack for so long things just need to be fine tuned. Hopefully after a scan or two more I'll be able to get it back to normal conditions.

Like I said before, since it's been so far off for so long with all the leaks and faulty parts, with everything now fixed will it compensate for itself and make corrections or would I need to fine tune it somehow?

 

Going to do a compression check once I get my hands on a pressure gauge. On start up it initially revs up to 1600rpm's, then it wants to settle down to normal range. It starts to drop rpm'sbut as soon as it gets to normal range it sputters, fluctuates in between them (600-900rpm's) and revs back up to the 1800-2000rpm range and stays there.

 

I am not sure if this will help you or not, its certainly off the track you guys have been talking about....
How's the rubber ring on your harmonic balancer looking? On my 86 IROC, back in 94, it had maybe 150,000 miles on it and when I floored the accelerator, the car shuttered like mad. When I backed off the gas, it stopped. Turned out the harmonic balancer rubber ring (between the outer ring and the inner part bolted to the crank) was not holding the two metal parts together.
Like I said, this is way off course from what you guys have talked about but I thought I might throw it out there, just something to check next time your under your car. Maybe your shutter is not related to the other stuff going on in your ride...
Good luck,
Jim

 

As mentioned earlier in this thread, all this was to get around the replacement of the opti since I'm a broke @$$ for the time being. Which is also why getting a cable for myself and other things has taken so long and is so troublesome. But it's starting to seem that my opti could be the only option left which is causing my troubles. I'll still eventually find a cable and also check my compression, but stretched thin for the time being on what I can do. Thanks for all the help and input though guys, it's been much help. And of course I'll update as usual if I have anything else to ponder about

 

I sent the cable, you still didnt get it? Ooooh this is not good. Post office screwed up again. Not to mention I'm out a $50 cable.

 

When did you send it out? I'll just assume the best for now and hope it's still on it's way since it may take a little longer then expected traveling from VA to IN...let's hope.

 

Last Wednesday.

 

Ok well it still isn't here today, if it isn't here by wednesday I'll pm you and we can try and figure it out.