tattoojunkie

back when i had a mustang i did run into a similar problem. just not quite so bad.if everything is that dirty inside and out i would try to sea foam the motor before taking it to get the codes pulled might suprise you just how much you might clean up by doing so i have used sea foam on all my vehicles in the past to present and , it does help alot

JGuy07

The TB is a little dirty, I saw yesterday, a bit oily. The blades aren't touching the intake anywhere though. I went back out there today and the lever isn't sticking at all its falling back all the way to the stop screw. I guess Im just gonna have to wait until I get my aldl cable so I can get some data. Then see who can assist me from there.

JGuy07

I took it out for a cruise to see how it's running. There may be a problem with the transmission, I haven't checked the fluid level yet. Here are the details; it drove alright across town in 1-3 gears low rpm's. Then I took the vehicle out on a sr to get it through the paces and hit at least 70mph or so. I would get on the gas and the vehicle would shutter violently and the shaking seemed to be coming from underneath me from the transmission and the stick was shaking violently as well. 5th and 6th gears were the worst, as if there was no power along with the violent shaking.

I got off the sr and made my way VERY SLOWLY back to town after taking a ten minute break to let the motor relax. From that point on all gears were **** and the shuttering and shaking preceded to happen in all gears. I putted through town at 15mph shuttering the whole way. The only help I can get from my father is him constantly telling me to take it to a shop, I took it to a shop once before and paid too much money and they solved nothing. So I'm thinking I can at least check or change the tran fluid and go from there for starters.

I'm starting to think I've bit off more then I can chew with this vehicle for the time being, first thought it would be ok to have minor problem so I could learn along the way but as things continue it's almost a burden. But you guys are helping out quite a bit with the input as I'm sure I am going to need quite a bit more. Any thoughts on what I should check or do next?

Would this sort of thing be only related to the transmission or could something like this be a result of compression issues, warped heads, anything like that? Again, I'm just learning so IDK the details or ins and outs quite yet bare with me plz. And at NO POINT did the SES LIGHT ever come on... :/

97WS6SCharged

You probably have a broken/ripped transmission mount.

JGuy07

Don't recall getting a look at the tran mounts at all when I've been under the vehicle, where exactly are those positioned? And when checking the fluid in the tran I assume having the front end on ramps would throw off the level since its sitting at an angle, but how else would you get to it?

Injuneer

The trans mount sits between the trans cross-member and the tailshaft housing of the transmission. It's a big block of rubber.

The fill plug for the T56 is pretty much in the middle of the trans. The level will not be affected much by the trans not being level. The preferred method is to check it while it is on a 4-pont frame lift, or a 4-wheel lift.

JGuy07

So basically having low fluid and or a jank tran mount could cause what I was describing?

Can you list any other possibilities that I can check while im looking?

IDK how to explain it other the "shuttering" it will shake and the car jerks a lot like a stop and go action...

97WS6SCharged

Could be the clutch slipping from what you describe though the shifter usually doesn't dance when that happens. Easy way to test it would be to get up to about 50 or 60 in 6th and nail it then see if the tach jumps all over the place. I'd look at the trans mount first though.

JGuy07

I was doing that the other day when I took it out. The tach wouldn't jump around all that much but the car would still be shuttering. It basically happens whenever I lay into the throttle in any gear now once temps get up. But during lower gears I can seem to coast to get around even with the shuttering going on ill just engage the clutch and coast, the higher gears like 5th and 6th is shaky all the way. Long list of problems on my end.

I know I'm jumping all over the place here, but a bad opti or coil could still cause the vehicle to run like this right? The shuttering and hesitation? Coil continuity tested fine but that was during cool conditions not with engine temps up where it may fail. I don't have a spark tester to check for weak spark or coil. But still, a bad opti or coil could lead to some of this?

JGuy07

Ok, since I can't leave things alone. I went back out and basically started from the beginning again. I checked for vacuum leaks and checked all the sensors ref. and sig. voltage. And I believe I came across a faulty MAP sensor. Setting my meter to dcv 200, I referenced the black wire and grey wire on the connector terminals for the map. The voltage came back with 5v which is good. Then I went to check signal voltage connecting + lead to green wire and - to black, there was no reading. I turned the engine on for idle and through rpm ranges there was still no reading. So I assume the MAP sensor needs to be replaced and that I checked correctly. MAP could cause a domino effect leading to what appears to be other problem since it controls a/f ratio, spark timing and ignition, which would make sense as to why I've been chasing ghosts around the engine. so any thoughts on that? lol

JGuy07

Apparently just wasted $40 on a new map sensor. Still showing 5v reference and Ov signal so it has to be my wiring somewhere I guess. I do know I can get the new connector and wires for about $20 but how exactly would I go about checking the wiring and/or replacing them?

Or what other system does the MAP link with, maybe I can back track if that's possible to see if something ahead of the sensor is also causing the problem....?

Guest47904

Do you have ground to the sensor or just 5 volts?

JGuy07

IDK what you mean by ground to the sensor, black wire? I followed the haynes manual to check it. negative lead to black wire and pos lead to grey wire for reference and got the 5v. Then left the neg lead on the black wire and pos lead to green wire and got 0v when it said the sig voltage there should be anywhere from 2 to 4 depending on vacuum or whatever. so what else to do?

Injuneer

Set the meter on a lower scale than 200Vdc

JGuy07

Ok, I set it to 20vdc and still got the 5v reference and nothing for signal voltage. I have paper clips connecting the connector to the sensor so i can check the sig voltage while its "plugged in". I still get 5v reference with the clips and nothing for sig voltage.

Ok scratch that sry. The old sensor ( 5v reference, 4.35v sig) New Sensor (5v reference, 4.64v sig)....this is just with key on car not running. didnt notice the broken clip when i gave you the last numbers sry. So I guess there actually isnt a problem with the map afterall? go me :/

when checking with engine ON sig voltage is suppose to be from 1.5 to 2v and I am only getting around 1.23v at most yet spends a lot of time around .85(old sensor) New sensor is showing about 1.23 also but doesnt dip down like the old sensor to lower voltage. So should I just go ahead and place the new sensor on since the old sensor drops to low voltage while idling?