Get studs with the allen hex in the end, then you just remove the stud. I'm a big proponent of studs over bolts.

I just hope you have as much luck as Jason has with his Frank. Great machine work goes a long ways in reliability but 200 is still pushing it. As if you didn't already know that.

-Mindgame

 

Titanium 'dude... titanium and carbon fiber. It's just money right.

-Mindgame

 

Yea Daddy,ya got that $50,000 for my tube chassis??

 

Tubes? You don't need any stinkin' tubes, we'll contract it out to an aerospace machine shop. Think "MONOLITHIC titanium chassis!"

-Mindgame

 

Sweeeeet.
Do they take credit cards?
What ya thinking about 2000 lbs ready to roll with a 706 aluminum BB and a 8-71 done up by Mooneyham? Maybe a 14-71?
Nice 6 second ride.

 

Going to try them...May swap to a set of Hooker LT's IF the MAC's seem to be holding me back. I haven't seen any real world proof that LT's make that much more power than mid lengths. I'm trying to keep the car emissions legal in Maryland. We can burn an "emissions chip" to get it through with the 847, and I still have the ability to swap my cat back on in a matter of about 20 minutes. I have one set up the same length and flanges as my off road pipe. It passed Maryland emissions "treadmill" test with flying colors with the CC305/ported head combo...With the cat in place.

Frank

 

-Mindgame

 

got a part number for those mindgame?

 

Would those be ARP-234-4301????

Frank

 

Glad i read the entire post.. I was about to mention those... ha..

As far as the LT's over the Mac's.. i think the primary is going to be your biggest limiting factor.. How do the port's on the heads line up w/ the headers? i know when most open up the exh. side they're fairly close to size of a 1 3/4 Primary...

Looking great frank..

 

Steve,
When I had Joe Prince port the heads, I knew I was planning on running the MAC headers. The heads are the one's that are on the stock bottom end now. They've only got around 2000 miles on them. Eventhough they're low milage, I'm still going to have them gone through before I put them on the new motor.

Frank

 

BTW, I did forget to add that I already have a set of ARP head bolts...Just not studs.

Frank

 

Looks good Frank! Hope you have more luck firing it up than I did with mine.

BTW mine weighed 3380 lbs without me in it and 1/4 tank of gas. I have T-tops, A/C, power everything. The only thing I removed was the spare tire/jack, but I put an amp rack and a sub in a stealthbox in the back, so I guess it's a wash??

 

Oh Oh...I must've missed that one. What happened with yours?

Frank

 

Battery was weak (no big deal, just jumped it), the car fired up on the first attempt, and settled into a mean sounding lope. I had open Hooker long tubes so it was nice and loud- actually made my helpers jump back who were standing right next to the engine bay I specifically left the cooling system dry just in case there was a problem and the motor had to come out I wouldn't waste a bunch of coolant. So after the motor fired the first time, I let it idle for 20 seconds or so, shut it off and started filling the radiator up. Restarted it, and had steam and liquid shooting out of the passenger side bank. Removed the spark plugs on that side, and #6 had water droplets all over it

Instead of fighting the cramped engine bay, I'm just going to pull the motor again. I really hope it's not a cracked head, but I'm dealing with a major coolant loss here. So bad that when I pulled the knock sensor to drain the coolant from the block, I could hear air rushing through the header on the passenger side.