I will as always thanks to the king.
thanks,
Chris

 

I slightly beveled the wp connector coupler to get the seal on easy. I really didn't take much off with a dremel.







Hal

 

Hal, thanks for those pics, that is great. Seems others have used the coupler as well (perhaps without removing any material?). Did you oil it or install it dry (I think dry is the correct way??)?

ACE1252, in that pic (which you also posted in reply to my question on this very topic in another thread; thanks for that, by the way), it looks as though the marker is slightly smaller in diameter than the shaft. It seems like that would invite the lip of the seal to catch on the shaft, which is what the tool is supposed to be preventing. I guess the marker is close enough that it works?

I'm still wondering about using oil on the seal to guide it on the tool (and onto the shaft). From what I've read, the seal should be installed dry, yet I keep seeing people using oil on the tool.

I spent ~3 hours last night pulling my spark plug wires (except #7; can't SEE the bolt to loosen the braket holding #7 wire against the block) and installing / routing the passenger side wires behind the damn ps pump. I just want to drive my freaking car!!

 

I know this is an old post but it's the right place for this one. When i replaced my opti i did the opti seal but not the water pump seal so i noticed some oil leaking from somewhere on the timing cover.(about 10 drops when i park it) So i pulled it all apart and replaced the opti seal again and the water pump seal. I made sure to do it correctly on both seals. Put it all back together and it's still frigging leaking. It's leaking less but still leaking (down to about 5-6 drops).Is there any way to change the crank seal without taking the timing cover off? It's driving me mad. It never leaked before the opti change but the opti had to be done.