I just got done sliding my new cam into position and the intake is back on. I'm now ready to install the double roller timing chain. I bought CMS's version of the double roller. It has 3 key ways. One has a dot, one has a (-) and the last one has a (+). I'm guessing I want to install it with the dot over the key. The cam I put in is a Comp Cam 236/242 .555/.576 112+4 lsa. I was told by CMS the cam was ground with the +4 and I don't have to degree the cam. Does that sound right? Am I supposed to leave off the reluctor ring?

 

I want to finish up the motor today but I'm at a standstill. Your input is appreciated.

 

Before you fix the crank sprocket, remove the stock sprocket key and get one from a 95- car or machine your's to that slot length. Line the dot on the sprocket and leave out the reluctor. You have to get a hub from a 95-, it's longer and should take up the space the reluctor left for a proper pulley alignment.

 

You should always "degree" the cam in the sense of being sure it is installed at the centerline you want, which in this case is "straight up". This causes a lot of confusion because the term "to degree a cam" has two alternate meanings. One refers to intentionally installing the cam either advanced or retarded. The other is just a measuring process to be sure it is "straight up", as it should be if everything was machined correctly and you install it with the marks lined up.

Rich

 

Why would you want to leave the reluctor wheel out and have to get another hub or build a spacer?

 

I was doing some searching around on the board and it looked like the reluctor wheel has to be removed if you switch to a double roller becasue there is no room for it. I was also told the CPS will not work. I'm guessing it's because you have to remove the reluctor wheel. Am I right about this?

 

You might want to check that.If nothing else grind the od of the wheel to fit and use it for your spacer. You need to put both sprockets on and(straightedge) eyeball it from the side to make sure it is straight,in line and see if the wheel needs to be used as a spacer and it is the correct thickness.You can get the crank gear on easy by heating it in the oven at 300* for an hour or so, but it will take a puller to get it off without leaving hammer tracks all over it.A two arm hook puller will do.I have not tried using the double chain.I have always used the Cloyes ED Lt-1 chain with good success even with BIG spring pressures.

 

Not to me it does. You may want to request the reasoning behind that statement, with CMS. They (CMS), CC, or anyone else with the necessary cam lobe checking hardware/software may be able to confirm the accuracy of the cam itself, but can they guarantee the accuracy of the linkage you will use to connect the cam to the crank? I know I'm not clairvoyant enuf to guarantee it. As most cams are ground as intended or requested, the primary purpose of the degreeing process is to insure (or check) that the linkage used on any given setup is transferring the cam timing accurately (or as intended) to the crank. That, or at least make installer aware as to how inaccurate it is. That way if it isn't (accurate), the proper/necessary steps can be taken.