alright here we go i have a 95TA and recently i have came across the problem of misfires i have changed the opti cap and rotor with a new msd one i put in a accel coil and a stock ICM put new Taylor OTVC wires on it and changed all my plugs out and it runs fine for a while even when the temp goes up. But after about ten mins of driving or so it starts to cut out and miss a little bit then it just keeps getting worse and worse untill it wont run at all any help would be much appreciated i am at a complete loss here. Thanks Guys

 

a little more info would help, is it stock? list any mods if not (perhaps a signature) does this problem go away when it cools down again? is it only when the motor is under a load? a few more specifics

 

Modifications:
Pacesetter Long Tube Race Style Headers
3" Pacesetter off road y-pipe
Hooker cat-back
Spec Stage II Clutch
Taylor OTVC Wires
NGK Plugs
K&N Air Filter
Lingenfelter Cold Air Intake
Trick Flow Intake Elbow
Descreened MAF Sensor
MADZ28 Custom Tune
EGR and AIR Removed
Pro 5.0 Power Tower Shifter
Built moser 12 bolt ratio 4:30
alloy axles
eaton Posi
accel hot coil
msd opti cap and rotor
there is a list of mods and it does work fine after about ten mins or so when it all cools down but it doesnt seem to go off of heat when the temp gauge shows warmth it still runs fine even when it gets up to normal temps its just after running for ten or fifteen mins

 

SES light? Do you have a loss of power under load? Check the wires and make sure you didn't cross a few of them. I would check them at night too for arcing.

 

the SES light comes on all the time and goes off it has since i got the car two years ago the wires arent the problem it was doing it before i went on my recent adventure lol that was the reason for the tear down. it runs fine for a while then all the sudden you cant touch the gas at all it idles very rough and wont run with any pedal at all

 

Even if the light goes out it stores the codes. Get back to us with the codes. What and when was the most recent mod you did and I don't mean your recent attempts to fix your problem? How long has this been going on?

 

well i went to auto zone and all they had was a obd2 scanner and my car is one of the last ones with an obd1 but the real kicker is the plugin is one off a obd2 lol its weird

 

I would call around. They are getting harder and harder to find. And some don't work well with certain cars.

 

I've heard this problem again for 12 years now on this board,and it seems the O2 sensors can't get hot enough to send the right message to the computer.I think there are O2 sensor heaters or something out there that can maybe fix this.But descreening the tb could be a problem as well.The headers are alum,and not iron,so they don't hot enough to do the job.beer time.Hope this helps.

 

Completely normal for all 95's - OBD-I PCM and OBD-II ALDL connector. All you need is an OBD-I scanner witnh an adapter plug, or use jumper wires as suggested by Shoebox:




All 94 and up LT1's use heated O2 sensors. Neither the headers nor the stock manifold, nor the rest of the exhuast system is aluminum. Headers are typically mild steel or stainless steel, stock manifolds are cast iron. Then there's the ultra-rare Sanderson cast aluminum LT1 headers that were sold back in the mid-90's...... but I doubt he has a set of those.

Long tube headers can cause O2 sensor heater problems though.

He has to get the codes.

 

Sounds like you have a problem with the O2 signal(s) as mentioned. But I think it's a wiring issue. And I think your problem is when the PCM goes into closed loop, since it takes a few minutes to do so and up to that point, the PCM ignores the O2 readings. The easiest way to check if this is so is to unplug one of the O2's. This forces the engine to stay in open loop. If it stays running good even after several minutes, you pretty much know the problem is an O2 signal.

If that is the case, and I'm willing to pay money that it is, ask me how to find which one is causing the problem.

 

Thanks guys im gonna try the O2's and see what happens ill keep posted if it doesnt work Thaks again

 

alright i unhooked the passenger side O2 and the car doesnt die but it still cuts out and misses when you rev to bout 2500 rpms or so on up is that just because it needs the O2 to run efficantly?

 

2500 RPM or so sounds like plugs to me. Did you try to gap a platinum/iridium plug?
check to make sure ALL of your plug wires are on TIGHT (i had this happen and it caused the same problem you are having)

 

yeah i took the plugs and wires that were on it and changed them out with tayor spiro wires and ac delco platinuim plugs and have checked them time and time again then we thought it might be the opti but when we got into that the rotor was a little bad so i just changed it out with an msd cap and rotor. but the only thing i have even done to it in the last two years is the moser rear end and a short throw and it ran great untill i hit a massive pothole on crappy indiana roads then it started missing just a little bit and running real rich and the missing just kept getting worse and worse. I hooked up timing gun to all the wires just to see how it was firing and the whole drivers side fired great and the passenger side was really eratic but i havent checked that again since i got the front end back on