boomtufo

Hello
Yesterday I went to leave for work and my serpentine belt snapped about 2 minutes into driving.
So I took it back home and shut it off, later that day I put a new serpentine belt on.
Today I drive to work, car is acting funny.. It won't go below 1500 to 2000 rpm's even in gear (T56). When in Neutral it idles solid at 2k.
But I figure ehh it'll balance out soon.
I get to work, maybe 8 minutes of driving, I smell something burning.
Shut off car and instantly hear a boiling sound, so I pop the hood and run around front only to see coolant pouring out of the reservoir neck.
So I'm thinking hmm maybe the thermostat didn't open?
So I restart the car and revv it up to 3k and hold it there for about 4 seconds, and then BANG smoke everywhere.
Turn the car off and all it did was blow off the bottom hose.
By now I'm late for work.
So after I get off today, I go out to the parking lot put the hose back on, start it up, after 5 minutes everything is fine.
I get in it and start driving and instantly notice it wont go below 2k rpms again.
Once I'm close to my house I can smell the burning and even see smoke coming from the engine bay.
So I get home and open the hood and smoke is pouring out of my engine bay.

AND my temp gage is pegged at the bottom of the gauge, like it's not even to the first notch (160) mark. I feel like if the fluid was that hot my temp gauge would be at least at 160 after like 8-10 minutes of driving. Maybe one of the wires to the temp gauge was cut from the serpentine as well?

Now looking at the engine bay there're one or two wires that I think broke when the serpentine belt did, probably ripped them out.

My fans also don't work now and the one wire looks like it is running to them or one of them..

But this is my only vehicle and I need to get to work on Thursday!

So please if anyone knows if these isssues are related please tell me how I can fix it.

Thanks!!

ps sorry for the long message!

slick1hunting

The belt can cause alot of damage as its ripping apart and getting thrown off. Split and cut wires would be very common. If I were you I wouldnt be running it until I had fans working and temp guage back on. I would be looking over every wire ,connector,sensor,and hose(vacuum and coolant) for any signs of damage(that the belt could have damaged.). I would also look over the air intake tube. The high idle is proba ly either a vacuum leak(could likely be in the air intake tube) or damage to the iac valve wiring or connector. The temp sensor in water pump seams like it could easily be damaged as well and might effect the fan operation but not the guage in the cab(that sensor is in the head). Its possible with running it with high temps to take out a headgasket and warp the head and other high dollar repairs so hopefully you didnt cause further damage by ignoring warning signs.


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Injuneer

Is the SES light on? If the fan circuit or the coolant temp circuit is screwed up, you should have an SES light.

Please add a "signature" with basic info about your car - year, model, engine, trans and any major mods. Not all years of the LT1 are the same.

boomtufo

1995 6-Speed T56

Sorry should've mentioned that.

But that's the thing, I don't have an SES light. Never have.

Should the SES light go on when the car is not started but the ignition is turned to Run?

Because mine doesn't.


Thanks!

rngilliland

Yes. The SES light should turn on when you turn the key to run. Your bulb may be burned out.

boomtufo

Okay. Cause I bought this car about a month ago and the emissions/smog system right above the exhaust manifolds is like removed and the valves are bent down. I wonder if the previous owner removed the bulb so it wouldn't seem sketch to me when
I came to look at it?

But the other thing is when I turn my ignition to run, the low coolant light doesn't show, but it randomly goes on and stays on while driving.

Injuneer

The low coolant sensor has a high failure rate. It's only connected to the dash light ( via a latching relay). You could try cleaningcit. But it's usually a corroded circuit board due to the coolant leaking into it.

As long as you are keeping the cooling system full I'd ignore the low coolant light for now and focus on the SES light and scanning the PCM for codes.

boomtufo

Okay now the SES light is on.. So something is being flaky. But know of any places that scan obd-1?

And thanks so much for the info thus far I do appreciate it

Injuneer

See the sticky post ar the top of the forum topic listing for free scan software. 95 confuses most shops because it has a 16-pin ALDL connector and they assume it's OBD-2 when it isn't.

slick1hunting

^^^^^ thats one of the best tools to have with these cars. Get the aldl cable($60) and use the free software. ALDL OBD1 OBD cable OBDI OBD2 engine codes. As I said before driving your car around before you get a few things sorted out is very risky and can go from a $10 repair to $2000 in a hurry.


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boomtufo

Okay so after doing an IAC reset the idle seemed to be fixed, or at least better than before.. However I also added about 4 (one) gallon jugs to the system with the bleed valves open.

Drove it around for about 15 minutes, everything seemed fine except for the temp gauge stuck at 0 degrees.

After parking it I left it running and popped the hood and noticed smoke consistantly spewing out of the resevoir neck.

I pop the cap and just as I do a ton of fluid starts to bubble out.

Shut the car off and it only gets worse and I can hear like a loud vacuum-ish sound right around the radiator cap.

What could be causing this?

Bad Thermostat?
Waterpump?
Radiator Cap?
Hose?
Vacuum Line?
Car seemed to run fine while driving around. (Fans are still not running) however line is still severed.

Thanks!

slopokrodrigez

You should not be asking questions until you get the temperature monitoring issue fixed (gauge reading) and the fans coming on like they should.

BTW if you want to test fan repairs you can simply turn on the AC it should come on.