This is going to be a kinda long write up so bear with me here.
Im having my engine rebuilt into a 383 using the eagle crank #10350375057I And well my problem is the last counter weight wont clear my oil pan. Unless they chop the crap out of it and weld it up and do alot of massging. Well hes given me not to many options here. First off massage the stock oil pan resulting in 160$ of labor. Or get a new oil pan. But he tells me the kits on summit that say they will fit wont fit unless they massage it like the stock oil pan. He tells me that from his experiance the only pan that will fit without any work to it is the milodon pan # 30909. The problem here is, it has no hole tapped for a low oil sensor ( i dont really care about this one since i check my oil) CAn i have this sensor deleted by a mail order tune? I could have a hol drilled and tapped but i dont want to cut up a brand new pan. Also anoter problem with this pan is the kickout on the bottom he, says it probaly wont clear the oil filter, so he wants me to disregard the oil cooler and completley get rid of it. Does this make sense to you guys. I was under the impression that its there for a reason, but he seems to think itll be ok with out it. Right now im leaning towards the milodon pan, since it has extra capacity and it will fit without working over (what he says). Whats your opnion on the matter? please help me out.
Steven

 

My brother had some clearance issues with one counterweight on his eagle 383 crank and stock oil pan. All it took was 10 minutes of hammering with a ball pein and some woodblocks to get enough clearance. The oil pan lip (where the seal sits) ended up slightly bent, but we havent seen any leaks so far.

 

canton makes a pan that works great even has the hole for low oil sensor but if you have longtubes sensor is really tight fit i left mine off and took the light out of the dash

 

I have a Canton oil pan that required severe clearancing, both by beating the crap out of the rails and working over the oil scraper with my Dremel to clear the rods and the dipstick tube. So, aside from a couple hours work, it's no big deal. Also, if the oil level sensor won't work out and you can get a plug for it, just splice the two wires together and the light will go out. The sensor is just an on/off switch. Oil level OK, switch is closed. Oil level low, switch is open. It is not monitored by the PCM.

 

I have a 355, but with the Eagle H beam rods the block needed to be clearanced at the pan rail. I have the Canton road race pan (242t) and it works great for me. I didn't have a problem with the dipstick, it does have a lot oil level sensor provision, and has baffling and a crank scraper. It may need some tweaking with your 383 depending on what kind of rods you are using, but Canton says it will clear most 383s.

 

yay, lets pay 300$ for an oil pan that MIGHT clearance without hammering the crap outta it!

 

same here, it was not a big deal to clearance the stock pan, mine has been together for about 4 years with my 383 and no problems

 

did you add baffles? what windage tray are you running? I am having the oil pressure issues at high acceleration and deceleration and dont wanna spend 300$ to re-hammer out oil pans.

 

moddified windage tray, stock new gm LT4 oil pump(30 psi idle hot, 65 psi at 3000 rpm hot)

here is a rule you should follow with pumps and oil pans:


stock pan = stock oil pumps

aftermarket/ large oil pans = high volume/pressure pumps

never use a high volume pump with a stock pan it is just asking for oil starving issuse

 

CompStar's rod bolt profile is significantly less than Eagle's. I learned this the hard way w/ the building of my 396. After replacing the Eagles for the CompStars much less clearencing had to be done at the pan rails and the Canton pan fit beautifully.


It should be noted you don't have to use a HV pump w/ a baffled pan.

 

No need to have the low oil switch "programmed out".... its not connected to the PCM.