Quick summary.

Tuned Lt1 with cc306, car was running before i adjusted the rockers (car running covers off). I bleed the air from the cooling line and a little coolant came out. it wasn't a lot of coolant a dribblet came out with the car running. tightened the bleeder and car was ok

played with the fuel pressure and heard a litte POP near my AFPR now Fuel pressure gauge lost all pressure... (maybe it was the gauge... new one comming in soon) tried to crank it and no start. When it was running durring the RR adjustment there was no MAS or o2 sensors connected.

During my repairs the next day...
Installed 2 02 sensors
fuel was present at the rail. No start.
Replaced FPR- nothing (new OEM, AFPR sitting in car... diaphram looks to be in good cond)
Replaced 255lph for stock Pump- Nothing (had the stock pump on when it was running. Swapped incase W255lph it wasn't holding psi to the rail)
Replaced injectors (was running 36# now running new 32's)

readjusted rockers, zero lash and 1/4 turn (1.6rr's)

wouldn't start at all...just crank.

checked all the fuses under the hood, and in the dash. all OK

Replaced Spark plugs (fouled, very black and sooty lack of o2 sensors i suppose) now TR555s
Checked spark at ICM (good)
Checked spark at cyl 1 spark plug... nothing at first... with a little giggle ZAP...

Didn't have the braided (-) cord on the ICM bolt that is connected to the frame of the car, once connected I got the car to start... then die.

Recharged battery autocraft gold AAP
Replaced IAC (scanmaster reads counts of: Old:117 New unit: 117 car turns over much faster...
TPS was at .72, now at 70. with idle screw out lowest it goes is .68

and here i am... tomorrow is a new work day.

here is what my scanmaster reads currently (connected to lower left tan wire behind ALDL, (-) and (+) under dash):

210-214 (and going down) 0.0
MAF 00
SP 00
LP 00.0
rP 00.0
dtc - (i have a solid SES light tho...)
MPH 00
LbL 128
rbL 128
CEL 00
Lin 128
Rin 128
L02 90
R02 90
ATS -40
CLE -40
TPS .70
Tpp 00
r 50
IAC 117
Bat 12.7
EGR 00
MAP 30.4
Bar 30.6
ACP .00
CCP 00
050. 0.0

KOEO on those scanmaster readings, the 02's become less the more time i let by (koeo) BAD PCM? Because some of these readings are wackoooo... or is this because it's only koeo... Im in NJ (for MAP/BAR readings)

Tuned by MADZ28, for my cam specs. 58mm BBK, 36# inj, delete air vats egr

any help would be greatly appreciated... as I am lost and without a map at this point...

OH and...

IGN is MSD 8.5s and MSD Pro billet turned 1.5 turns out on the adjusting screw. MAF is a GRANATELLI (speling..)

 

Guess tomorrow I will start with adjusting the rockers again... this time with the poly locks backed out to try and find a zero lash point to work with... if you see anything I don't please PM or post up!

 

I'm assuming the "CLE" is really the "CLT" (coolant temp sensor). The -40* would indicate the sensor is not connected. Might explain why its running rich.

Did you ever actually check the fuel pressure after the "pop" at the FPR?

 

I ordered one sunday, just waiting on it. I tried harbor freight for a FP tool, but it didn't fit under the winshield...

Im also thinking my MSD pro billet is retarded by 2-3degrees that would run rich... but would it not start if the timing was... too retarded?

 

update, today 8-25-11:

Coolant temp sensor was disconnected, i am trying to find the pigtale harness to attach it... im searching SHBOX and his clickable A4 harness now...

Replaced motor oil, took a cup and gathered the first sample to check for metal shavings or bulk metal parts. Oil was semi dark, but still looked new. The darkness was all the debris and fine, really really fine metal almost too small to see. (car has all new piston rings, and all bearings are new) so i assume these debris are just the engine breaking in.

Readjusted the rockers again, using method 3: back out all the set screws on the RRs, find zero lash then set my preload (pl is 1/4 turn) retightened the set screws.
Just cranks... quick still.

Checked around for some negitive wires, all seem to be connected.

Reinstalled stock IAC, same 117 reading. Checked TPS appears to be working.

Removed"Tuned" PCM and installed a Stock one. Tried to fire, just cranking...

Removed stock PCM reinstalled "Tuned" PCM.

 

http://shbox.com/1/harness.htm

The IAC reading is the position the PCM is telling the IAC valve to move to. There is no feedback with regard to the actual IAC position.

 

Have you verified you have spark or fuel?

Are your connectors on your injectors fully snapped on?

Opti harness, it is fully seated? Corrosion on pins of connector(specifically where it plugs into top of opti.)

Have you verified You have the plug wires on the opti correct?

Was the car running good when it quit, or just kinda running?

Are all of your electrical connectors now hooked up? IAT, O2's CLT?

Mike

 

Everything appears to be connected. Hooked up the secong fuel gauge... 0 psi. I just pulled the rail and removed the 32#. gonna put on my 36s but I wanna get new rings and pintle hats first. So no pressure at the schrader but fuel comes to the lines at the engine bay. New reg... And the afpr is still available to swap in. Stock pump installed 255lph is in the trunk. Maybe a line is shot? Idk...

 

So, would a sensor not allow fuel pressure to build? I don't know how I went from a idling motor to making adjustments and hearing that pop to a no start...

Faulty opti send a sig to cut off fuel?
Bad pump? Tho it has a strong prime...

New filter and pump in mind... Though I have two already...

I have a jegs fuel pressure gauge, a gm specific cable for my scanner and an injector rebuild kit to work on these ol 36s. Returned the venom 32s.

 

If the Opti was not providing the signal required for the fuel system to operate, you would have a code (DTC 16).

You indicate fuel pressure is "0", but you also indicate "it has a strong prime". Does not compute.