Charge for the O2 sensor from the dealer parts dept at the time was $350. I called a different shop altogether and asked about it, so there wouldn't be any collusion. Their shop rates only did 1 hour increments, which added the additional $87 bringing the total up to $450. I looked into trying to change it myself, but everything I saw on this board back then was that it was tricky and you basically needed your car on a lift. You can't reach it from the top down, and you can't do it while the exhaust is hot or you'll rack up two grand in hospital bills from second degree burns. I seem to recall that my car needed an inspection within a month of doing it, so taking advantage of those friends I've mentioned was not an option.

It gets pretty hard to do anything on a car when you don't have a garage. I did my MAF stuff out in the open, have done brakes and changed out the tb at friends houses. but anything more than that, and you need a) your own garage and b) another source of transportation while your car is up in the air.

And, yes, I'm well aware that the quotes have exceeded the value of the car. But $3k does not. And even $4k would be acceptable if it gets me by for a year or more. But at this point, the solution has to be concrete.

Basically, if I don't keep this one, my muscle car days are behind me. Therefore, I'm frantically struggling for a viable solution both to the phantom engine problem and the ripoff problem. There doesn't seem to be one.

 

Coolant does NOT flow throught the intake. Coolant does, however flow throught the throttle body to prevent it from icing over in winter time. The moisture in the air can collect in the TB and ice it over.

Back to the issue at hand. These shops are taking advantage of your lack of knowledge, but honestly, it seems to me that you are letting it happen to yourself. They quote you outrageous amounts of money for simple repairs, and you agree to it. If you really have that much money to burn, send some my way. You NEVER diagnose a problem by replacing parts, and that's what these shops are doing to you.

 

I was trying to rib you at all. I was trying to assess what you had going on. Like I said before, you situation is just causing you to endure more pain (since you don't work on your own car). No one can make the shops in your area treat you right, so I guess you are just going to have to tough it out if you don't want to go anywhere else. I just don't know what other solution you have.

Oh, and your original question about leaking coolant from the intake into the engine...well, it's just not possible, since there is no coolant going in or out of an LT1 intake manifold. The closest coolant gets is the bottom plate of the throttle body.

 

I believe some shops make up prices based upon the customer. If you paid a very high price for a repair and come back they will quote the moon until you stop coming back. I bet women get quoted way more than men and the younger you are the more it costs also. Not all shops are this way but I found one in my town and thats 1 to many. My girlfriend payed $350 for info on turbos and when she went back to get the data they lost it. She came back over and over and it was one excuse after another and then they closed. Thats really getting bent over in my book.

 

Multiple viable solutions have been suggested in this thread. To summarize:

• Learn to fix it yourself
• Find a competent and honest shop
• Sell the car

You're handling that part fine on your own.

 

Do you have a friend who is a gearhead? If so, get that friend to help.

 

I would get your money back, stop the check charge back, demand they repay you... This is just insane, you spent more than the car is worth... LEARN how to work on vehicles not rocket science.!!!!!

 

The biggest obstical for me as well as others is having a place to work on it. I now have a job at a body shop and can use there place anytime but for a year I could not even change my spark plugs without it being a hugh hassel. If I started something I had to finish by dark or work in sub par conditions. A lot of apartments don't let you do anything at all in there parking lot and will check what your doing if you pop the hood to check your oil.

 

I'm sorry that you are feeling insulted....but you are the victim of Haynes "general" pictures on a rebuild. I know the picture you are talking about.....it is wrong.

Here is a picture of my LT1 intake....as the others have stated...it's a dry intake.


Here is a shot of the top end....


Just calm down and we will try to help you.

The coolant flowing through the throttle body will more than likely help with emissions. Others say it's to keep the throttle body from icing up in cold weather, but that doesn't make sense to me. I mean it's cold when you first start it up.

If you can get the car to an Autozone or Advance, have them scan the car for codes and let us know what they are....

 

That sucks sounds like you got raped

 

Also....if you want to test for a problem with your cooling system use this.....

Cooling system pressure tester.


You can rent this from Autozone. It should come with instructions.....

Perform the test with the engine cold. What you want to do is put this in place of your radiator cap and pump it to around 9-10psi....see if it holds pressure. It should....if not....then there is a leak in the system somewhere. You may even be able to see where....if the leak is external. If it's internal, you may hear coolant dripping into the oil. Bottom line is that if it does leak down you know you have a cooling system problem.

Next pump it to 14psi. same thing....just make sure it holds pressure and does not leak down.

If it holds pressure from the above tests....then do this.....Relieve the pressure pumping it up in the above tests. Reseal the pressure tester to the radiator, pump it to around 10psi, and start the engine. The needle should be still. It should not vibrate.....as the engine warms up the needle should start to rise. I would only allow it to go up a couple of psi. You don't want it to go to 18psi(cap pressure) because there is no way for the coolant to escape to the overflow tank......translation....you could blow a hole in the radiator or worse blow a head gasket.

If the needle vibrates then that is an indication of a head gasket problem, because cylinder pressure is causing the needle to move.

 

It is possible for it to freeze up, I live on a farm and in the winter time the carburetors on our tractors will turn white with frost after they run awhile. I don't know the exact reason but i assume it has something to do with the fuel and air emulsifying. This even happens on our tractors with updraft carbs and the intake and exhaust manifold is casted as 1 piece. Actually this has even happened during the summer when the tractors are used hard.........

 

That's good to know. I've never had it happen to me, but I don't live in an uber cold state either. So from what your telling me....it actually freezes when running.....I thought the heat from the engine would prevent that, but I'm wrong.

 

Have you considered buying a beater and working on your f-body using this site?

 

Next....get a mityvac.

Pull the hose off the fuel pressure regulator....attach the mityvac to it. Start the car....you should see a reading of around 20-22 hg, at idle, if your engine is healthy(mine pulled 21hg with the stock cam).

Here is a video of mine.....I attached the mityvac to it and the pressure tester(I pumped the pressure tester to 10psi...cold engine).

http://www.ace1252.com/images/CC503_...ant_tester.WMV

Notice as I rev it, the coolant pressure tester only moves slightly....that's the pressure of the water pump. Notice no wild vibrations. Sealed tight.

Look my mityvac reading. At idle, it's 16 hg's....now either I have an unhealthy engine.....or I have changed cams. It is, of course, the latter. I have the CC503 for which a normal vacuum reading at idle is around 15-16 hg's(same as LT4 hotcam).

The coolant pressure test should reveal a cooling system problem....the mityvac test will help to reveal an intake sealing problem. It also will reveal other problems.....like so below....

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm