LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Help me figure out my high RPM problem

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Old Apr 10, 2007 | 01:57 PM
  #1  
speed_demon24's Avatar
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Help me figure out my high RPM problem

I have no idea where to start on this, my car loses power right around 5800 RPM's, its not in the tune and its not getting any knock retard. There is also no audible miss that I can hear. Here's the dyno graph.
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k1...24/LE2dyno.jpg
Old Apr 10, 2007 | 03:45 PM
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Can you feel that dip when you are driving?

It's kind of a pain, but i would recommend pulling the opti apart and inspecting it. I had a similar dip and it turned out that one of the rotor screws had worked itself loose. At certain rpms i guess the harmonics were just right for the rotor to flap around, at all other rpms it ran perfectly.

My dip occured between 5300 and 5700 rpm. From 5700-6200 rpm the hp curved recovered and looked normal, and then it dipped off again above 6200. I could also definately feel the power loss while driving. I ended up replacing the whole opti unit to solve the problem, but im confident i could have just re-used the old opti by re-installing the rotor screw with some loc-tite.

The defective opti was a GM unit that had about 25k miles on it.
Old Apr 10, 2007 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by kyle97
Can you feel that dip when you are driving?

It's kind of a pain, but i would recommend pulling the opti apart and inspecting it. I had a similar dip and it turned out that one of the rotor screws had worked itself loose. At certain rpms i guess the harmonics were just right for the rotor to flap around, at all other rpms it ran perfectly.

My dip occured between 5300 and 5700 rpm. From 5700-6200 rpm the hp curved recovered and looked normal, and then it dipped off again above 6200. I could also definately feel the power loss while driving. I ended up replacing the whole opti unit to solve the problem, but im confident i could have just re-used the old opti by re-installing the rotor screw with some loc-tite.

The defective opti was a GM unit that had about 25k miles on it.
I can definatly feel the power dropoff up top, and around where the torque curve flys up the power surges at that same RPM at part throttle too. I guess I could take the opti apart and take a look at it, its not that big of a job.
Old Apr 10, 2007 | 05:53 PM
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If you do pull the opti, be sure to also check out the bearing for any sort of roughness and also examine the cap for any carbon traces that may indicate the dielectric has broken down.
Old Apr 11, 2007 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kyle97
If you do pull the opti, be sure to also check out the bearing for any sort of roughness and also examine the cap for any carbon traces that may indicate the dielectric has broken down.
Well I just took the opti apart, the rotor wasn't loose, but I see carbon traces inside it so it looks like my opti was arcing inside it. I guess its time for an MSD cap/rotor.
Old Apr 11, 2007 | 05:14 PM
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The cap usually doesnt just go bad by itself, it's constant misfires that make it break down (the spark has to go somewhere, so it often discharges through the cap). At what point did you first start to feel the dip in power - before the cam install?

What plug gap are you running? Tightening that up from stock is one thing you can do to reduce high-rpm misfires.
Old Apr 11, 2007 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by kyle97
The cap usually doesnt just go bad by itself, it's constant misfires that make it break down (the spark has to go somewhere, so it often discharges through the cap). At what point did you first start to feel the dip in power - before the cam install?

What plug gap are you running? Tightening that up from stock is one thing you can do to reduce high-rpm misfires.
I was running an ignition box for about 6 months when I had nitrous, that might have had something to do with it. I just put in autolite 104's with my new heads and gapped them at .040 so that should help too.
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