Help me figure out my high RPM problem
Help me figure out my high RPM problem
I have no idea where to start on this, my car loses power right around 5800 RPM's, its not in the tune and its not getting any knock retard. There is also no audible miss that I can hear. Here's the dyno graph.
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k1...24/LE2dyno.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k1...24/LE2dyno.jpg
Can you feel that dip when you are driving?
It's kind of a pain, but i would recommend pulling the opti apart and inspecting it. I had a similar dip and it turned out that one of the rotor screws had worked itself loose. At certain rpms i guess the harmonics were just right for the rotor to flap around, at all other rpms it ran perfectly.
My dip occured between 5300 and 5700 rpm. From 5700-6200 rpm the hp curved recovered and looked normal, and then it dipped off again above 6200. I could also definately feel the power loss while driving. I ended up replacing the whole opti unit to solve the problem, but im confident i could have just re-used the old opti by re-installing the rotor screw with some loc-tite.
The defective opti was a GM unit that had about 25k miles on it.
It's kind of a pain, but i would recommend pulling the opti apart and inspecting it. I had a similar dip and it turned out that one of the rotor screws had worked itself loose. At certain rpms i guess the harmonics were just right for the rotor to flap around, at all other rpms it ran perfectly.
My dip occured between 5300 and 5700 rpm. From 5700-6200 rpm the hp curved recovered and looked normal, and then it dipped off again above 6200. I could also definately feel the power loss while driving. I ended up replacing the whole opti unit to solve the problem, but im confident i could have just re-used the old opti by re-installing the rotor screw with some loc-tite.
The defective opti was a GM unit that had about 25k miles on it.
Can you feel that dip when you are driving?
It's kind of a pain, but i would recommend pulling the opti apart and inspecting it. I had a similar dip and it turned out that one of the rotor screws had worked itself loose. At certain rpms i guess the harmonics were just right for the rotor to flap around, at all other rpms it ran perfectly.
My dip occured between 5300 and 5700 rpm. From 5700-6200 rpm the hp curved recovered and looked normal, and then it dipped off again above 6200. I could also definately feel the power loss while driving. I ended up replacing the whole opti unit to solve the problem, but im confident i could have just re-used the old opti by re-installing the rotor screw with some loc-tite.
The defective opti was a GM unit that had about 25k miles on it.
It's kind of a pain, but i would recommend pulling the opti apart and inspecting it. I had a similar dip and it turned out that one of the rotor screws had worked itself loose. At certain rpms i guess the harmonics were just right for the rotor to flap around, at all other rpms it ran perfectly.
My dip occured between 5300 and 5700 rpm. From 5700-6200 rpm the hp curved recovered and looked normal, and then it dipped off again above 6200. I could also definately feel the power loss while driving. I ended up replacing the whole opti unit to solve the problem, but im confident i could have just re-used the old opti by re-installing the rotor screw with some loc-tite.
The defective opti was a GM unit that had about 25k miles on it.
Well I just took the opti apart, the rotor wasn't loose, but I see carbon traces inside it so it looks like my opti was arcing inside it. I guess its time for an MSD cap/rotor.
The cap usually doesnt just go bad by itself, it's constant misfires that make it break down (the spark has to go somewhere, so it often discharges through the cap). At what point did you first start to feel the dip in power - before the cam install?
What plug gap are you running? Tightening that up from stock is one thing you can do to reduce high-rpm misfires.
What plug gap are you running? Tightening that up from stock is one thing you can do to reduce high-rpm misfires.
The cap usually doesnt just go bad by itself, it's constant misfires that make it break down (the spark has to go somewhere, so it often discharges through the cap). At what point did you first start to feel the dip in power - before the cam install?
What plug gap are you running? Tightening that up from stock is one thing you can do to reduce high-rpm misfires.
What plug gap are you running? Tightening that up from stock is one thing you can do to reduce high-rpm misfires.
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